Bird #611 — Great Cormorant

phalacrocorax carbo

Monday, October 26, 2026 — 9:06 a.m.

Chesapeake Bay, Delaware — Cape May-Lewes Ferry

While on our eastern vacation, we made reservations on this ferry because my wife likes boat rides and I like birds. I stood on the deck almost all the time we crossed over to Cape May and back, looking at scoters, gannets, gulls, cormorants, and a few other species.

I knew to look for Great Cormorants from eBird, and I even knew where to look, since most of the photos of them from this location show them on a particular channel marker. I didn’t have my scope, so the best I could do was take zoom photos from the moving deck of the boat. There were many Double-crested Cormorants around for comparison/confusion. We never got very close to the marker, but I was pretty sure on the way north that I was seeing a couple birds that were larger and had more white on the face.

I made sure I was in the best possible position on the way back south, and I think we may have passed a little closer to the marker. But it was a bird on one of the nearby rocks that convinced me.

The bird in the very center of the photo, just to the left of the gull, is preening its feathers in the exact same position as the two other birds to its left. It is clearly wider and taller and has more white on the face.

This is actually a different photo, zoomed in more. Again, the cormorant on the right is wider and taller, and has more white on the face. It was this bird that convinced me to count it. It’s not a very satisfactory view, but it may be as close as I ever get to a Great Cormorant.

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Petersburg National Battlefield

The siege of Petersburg lasted 10 months. When Grant finally forced Lee’s army out of its trenches, the end of the war was just days away. Not much of the battlefield remains, but the National Park Service has preserved the area in which the Battle of the Crater took place.

On July 30, 1864, the Union army exploded a mine under the Confederate lines. It created a crater 170 feet long, 100 feet wide, and 30 feet deep. 278 Confederates were immediately killed. The Union division that was supposed to attack was late setting off, and when the men arrived, instead of exploiting the breakthrough, they huddled in the hole while the Confederates regrouped. The Confederates retook the gap, suffering 1,491 casualties while inflicting 3,798 on the Union troops.

Having read about this, I wanted to see the Crater. I expected a whole in the ground that was large and impressive. When we got there, I didn’t even realize I was looking at the Crater. I expected something much larger and deeper and … well … it’s just hard for me to understand how so many people could have been killed in a hole not much bigger than a house foundation.

The tunnel entrance. The tunnel was 511 feet long. The Crater is right in front of those trees on top of the hill.

The Crater from a distance. It’s the small mound in the middle of the photo.

Three views of the Crater.

Except for a quick stop in the visitor center and the walk around the Crater path, we didn’t get out of the car.

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Appomattox Court House National Historical Park

This was one of the highlights of our vacation. The weather was perfect (as it was for the entire trip), the park was beautiful, we had it almost to ourselves, and, of course, the history that happened here was fascinating.

The McLean house, where Lee surrendered to Grant.

Taken in 1865, a few months after the surrender.

I asked the ranger in the house about the story that McLean had lived on the Manassas battlefield where the first major battle of the war had taken place, and then moved to Appomattox to get away from the fighting, only to have the war end in his parlor. The story is essentially true, although the ranger told us McLean wasn’t just protecting his family. He was a speculator who made tons of money off the war through black-market smuggling and so forth, only to have it all become worthless when the war ended because it was in Confederate dollars.

Unfortunately, this isn’t the original house. A group of men took the original apart, intending to erect somewhere else as a money-making attraction, but they ran out of money and the pieces sat in the yard and rotted. There were a few bricks laying around that were incorporated into the reconstruction — mostly between the door and the windows on the front porch.

On the left is the Meeks Store and the smaller Woodson Law Office. On the right is the kitchen for the Clover Hill Tavern.

The Clover Hill Tavern.

The Union army set up a printing press in one of the upstairs rooms to print passes for the surrendering confederates.

The town as it exists today. (L to R) Appomattox County Jail, McLean House (visible through the trees to the left of the court house), Appomattox County Court House (now the visitor center), Meek’s Store, Woodson Law Office, Tavern Kitchen, Clover Hill Tavern, Tavern Guesthouse (now the park bookstore), Slave Quarters.

The final shots by Lee’s army were fired from the yard of the Peer’s House.

We walked the paths and read the plaques and drove to the few spots that were up and down the main road — where Lee and Grant met on the second day to finalize a few details, where the Confederate artillery surrendered, where Grant had his headquarters, etc.

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Guilford Courthouse National Military Park

This park wasn’t on our original agenda, but when I saw that we would be passing through Greensboro in the middle of a long drive, I decided we could use a break. Besides, who can pass up a Revolutionary War battlefield?

Turns out I could have. There isn’t much here.

In March, 1781, General Cornwallis and his British army was campaigning in the south, pretty much having things their own way. American general Nathanael Greene had a small army to oppose him, but he realized the British couldn’t win the war so long as the American had an army in the field. He let Cornwallis chase him around, always keeping one step ahead. Finally Greene received some new troops and decided to confront Cornwallis. He set up his army in three lines, the first made up of untrailed militia that he knew wouldn’t stand for long. The British came on, the Americans fought back hard and the two armies blasted each other until Greene decided it was time to go. His casualties had been relatively light, while Cornwallis had lost almost a fourth of his army. The British held the field and captured the American artillery, but Greene survived to fight another day. Frustrated, Cornwallis headed for Virginia (ending up at Yorktown), while Greene headed south to clear the rest of the British out of the southern states.

The small community that gave the battle its name is gone without a trace. There were no fortifications, so no evidence of the battle remains. The park preserves a patch of woods with a few clearings. The Hoskins farm, where the British formed to begin the battle, has been reconstructed. In the early 1800’s, a group of local men decided to turn the battlefield into a monument park and cemetery of the Revolutionary War. There is a huge statue of Greene (after whom Greensboro was named).

There’s also a monument to North Carolina’s three delegates to the Constitutional Convention even though they had no connection to the battle. And there’s a monument to one of the guys who decided to fill the park with monuments, which I suspect may have been his point all along.

The woods along the first American line. See the silhouettes of militia men running through the trees?

The location of the third American line.

The Hoskins Farm, from where the British launched their attack.

We toured the visitor center and learned about the role of women and enslaved persons. We drove the tour road, which was a little challenging. The park sits in the middle of a residential area in Greensboro and the residents consider the road to be their personal walking/jogging track. Some of them were reluctant to move for vehicles. We walked around a little bit near where the courthouse use to be, by Greene’s statue, and at the Hoskins Farm, but I don’t think we were there an hour total. Worth seeing, but not worth going to see.

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Battle of Atlanta Cyclorama

We were in the middle of day two of our vacation and we hadn’t done anything fun yet. I suggested two places we could stop on our way through Atlanta — the museum where The General, one of the trains in the Great Locomotive Chase, is housed, or the Atlanta Cyclorama. My wife thought the cyclorama sounded more interesting. I did a bit of research and discovered that the painting had been moved from its dedicated building downtown where I’d seen it in 1990, to the Atlanta History Center, north of town.

The Cyclorama is housed in its own circular wing of the museum. There’s a raised platform in the center with signboards telling the history of the painting itself. It’s pretty weak on the history of the battle, but great at hitting all the in-vogue agendas — the plight of “enslaved persons” (apparently “slaves” is now politically incorrect), women, and native Americans. There’s one black person in the painting, a guy on a horse in a small copse, but there were entire signs and part of the video explaining what his history might have been. The last time I saw the painting the guide told us the only woman in the painting was visible as a small red figure on the porch of a cabin, but there is nothing about her now. Instead, they’ve chosen a random soldier and claim that he is really a woman, representing the handful of women who disguised themselves as men and joined the Army. They showed a video right on the painting that highlighted all the stuff about Blacks and women that we’d already read on the signs.

Anyway, the painting was still cool. Here’s the back, which we saw as we entered the wing.

Scenes from the painting.

In this next one, Atlanta is visible on the horizon down the road.

A little bit of the viewing platform. The painting was originally intended for northern audiences. For a while it was on display in the south. In the upper left corner of this section, you can see a group of men heading away from the battle. These are Confederate prisoners of war. When it was displayed in the south, these were painted over to look like Union soldiers fleeing the battle. It was somewhere in this section that a docent pointed out the “woman” soldier, but I didn’t pay a lot of attention because that’s just silly.

It’s hard to see in my photo, but there’s a cabin to the left of the road in the distance in this painting. That’s where we were told the lone woman was. I’ve blown up that portion of the painting to give a better look, but I have no idea if she’s there or not. I remember being told that she was dressed in red. I could be mistaken. The only red I see looks like a puddle of blood.

From the beginning, terrain features, like dirt, bushes, rocks, were added in front of the painting for realism. In the 1930’s, figures of various heights were included. here are a few of them.

Supposedly Clark Gable saw the painting and said the only thing wrong with it was that he wasn’t in it. So they made fun of him by including him as a dead Union soldier.

This is a model of the building in Milwaukee where the painting was created.

It was a surprise to me that the Texas, the other locomotive involved in the  Great Locomotive Chase, was on display outside the Cyclorama, so we got to see that too.

We split a sandwich and a salad in the museum cafe, and they were surprisingly tasty.

We wandered around the rest of the museum, but we soon realized they were just playing the same politically correct tune over and over and over. They couldn’t get away from any glorification of the Confederacy quickly enough and I found myself in the weird position of disagreeing with both side of the issue. The Civil War was fought to defend slavery, and that was wrong. But the currently popular condemnation of all White culture is also wrong. After all, it was White people who formed the Republican party to defeat slavery and who fought the war to end it. We didn’t stay long.

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