Thunder Bay Lighthouse — Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada

I found Thunder Bay very disconcerting. We drove 500 miles north of Chicago, along the north shore of Lake Superior, through miles and miles of woods through several moose-crossing zones and found … Chicago. The city was ringed by franchise joints. Inside that ring was a tired, dirty, depressing, ugly city. I was expecting something more north-feeling, more touristy. We drove around in search of the lighthouse, only to discover we couldn’t get anywhere near it. It was on a breakwater far out in the harbor. We pulled into a little park on the shore and got out. Behind us was the city. Next to us was a massive gray ore dock. It felt just like Chicago — except that in front of us was Lake Superior, complete with a Common Loon swimming near shore.

We decided to sample the local cuisine, so we walked across the street to McDonald’s.

The lighthouse was built in 1937 and is still in use. It isn’t open to the public.

Thunder Bay Lighthouse - Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - July, 1996

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Old Fort William — Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada

After we visited Grand Portage, we drove up into Canada to Old Fort William. The two places were very similar — both recreations of fur trading posts. Fort William was originally located on Lake Superior, but the city of Thunder Bay has spread over the site. The final original building was destroyed in 1902. The reproduction is nine miles up the river.

We stopped in the Ojibwa encampment where a young Indian girl asked us to go into the fort with her to help her trade some furs. My older daughter was asked to carry 12 beaver furs. When the trader asked her how many there were, she told him “18.” Everyone laughed because they thought she’d made a mistake, but I think she was just being shrewd.

A soldier was playing the bagpipes in the center square. We took our time and visited all the stores, offices and store rooms. We ate lunch at the Cantine — sandwiches and scones. My wife bought their scone recipe and uses it at home all the time.

People in period costume were crawling all over the place doing period-type stuff. We watched the blacksmith get arrested for trading with a rival company. We watched the arrival of the voyageurs. In the farm area, I had to tell my younger daughter to “quit kicking the chickens.”

Everything was very well done. We stayed about four hours, and by the time we left, it was a very hot day indeed.

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Grand Portage National Monument — Cook County, Minnesota

We spent most of Independence Day in another country — Canada. We stopped at Grand Portage National Monument, just south of the border, on the way north.

Great Hall at Grand Portage National Historic Site. Mt. Rose is in the background.

The stockade is built on the site of an old fur-trading post. Traders had to make an 8.5 mile portage here to get around the falls on the Pigeon River. Two buildings have been reconstructed on their original sites. There were originally many others, but the park service has no plans to rebuild more.

Grand Portage from Mt. Rose

The Great Hall had been the dining hall and business headquarters of the North West Company. After we finished looking at the buildings, I took a quick hike up to the top of Mt. Rose, the small hill behind the stockade. My family wandered around down below and tried on period clothing. The view from the top was impressive, with Lake Superior and the stockade spread out in front of me and unbroken Minnesota wilderness behind me. The only sign of the 20th century was the Isle Royale ferry next to the dock.

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Grand Marais Lighthouse — Grand Marais, Minnesota

We drove northeast along the shore of Lake Superior, stopping to see anything that caught our fancy, until we arrived at Grand Marais where we got hotel rooms on the shore. We walked along the breakwater and enjoyed the lake, the weather, and the sunset.

Grand Marais Lighthouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The lighthouse at the end of the breakwater was built in 1922. The light is 38 feet above the lake and can be seen for 16 miles.

Grand Marais Lighthouse
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Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, Minnesota

This lighthouse is the prime attraction on the North Shore, so of course we had to stop. So did everyone else on the North Shore. The place was crawling, but we still enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.

Split Rock Lighthouse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The visitor center had an informative display and a video on how and why the lighthouse was built. It appears that the decision to build it here was mostly political — wealthy steel barons found it cheaper and easier to get the government to build a lighthouse than it would have been to upgrade their ships. It began operating in 1910 and was decommissioned in 1969. The light is 168 feet above Lake Superior.

Split Rock Lighthouse - taken by Steve Wick

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were three houses built for the keepers and their families, each with its own barn (the two remaining of which can be seen in the photo below). We were allowed in the first house which has been restored to its 1920’s appearance. We also took the obligatory walk down the long stairway to the shore to take advantage of the classic photo op of the lighthouse on the cliff. The stairway ran alongside the old tramway that was used to bring supplies to the keepers until the road was built in 1934.

Keeper's house - Split Rock Lighthouse

We were also able to enter the lighthouse and climb to the landing just below the light. We wandered around and took photos from every possible angle before heading east toward more adventures.

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