Bird #353 — Yellow-throated Warbler

dendroica (from dendron, tree, and oikein, to dwell) dominica (of Santo Domingo)

Wednesday, April 30, 1997 — 8:30 am

Devil’s Den State Park, Arkansas

I got up at 5:00 a.m. and drove three hours to see this bird. As I neared the park, I played a recording of its song over and over. I parked along Lee Creek, near the bridge, at the trail head of the Devil’s Den Trail. Almost immediately I thought I heard a Yellow-throated Warbler singing in the trees on the slope above the creek. I looked for it a bit, but it had stopped singing and I saw nothing. I started across the bridge toward the trail when I heard the bird again in the same area. I spotted it briefly in a tree right along the creek just as it flew to another tree further up the slope.

I returned to the west side of the creek and soon saw it again, high up in a sycamore. It was flitting about, silhouetted against the sky and often behind branches and leaves. I got a good look at the yellow throat and chest and the black streaks on the white sides. I could tell it had a gray back, but I couldn’t see the face pattern. It took off and flew into the woods on the other side of the creek. I crossed the bridge and started down the path on the other side. I soon heard the warbler again, singing high up in another sycamore about 30 yards from the creek. I got a better look this time and saw the face pattern as it moved about. It flew to another tree, and I followed. I soon saw the wings bars and was satisfied, but by this time my neck was very stiff. The bird stayed high up in the trees further up the slope from where I stood. I lost contact with it and started walking down the trail. Soon I saw a bird flitting swiftly through smaller trees right along the edge of the creek. I followed it and saw it fly up to, and briefly clash with, another bird about 10 feet off the ground right in front of me. The attacking bird flew off, but the remaining one was a Yellow-throated Warbler and this time I got about four minutes of great view as it moved around the bush in typical warbler fashion. It finally flew off to the west side of the creek.

I continued down the trail along the creek, seeing a smattering of warblers and other birds, then climbed the stairs up the cliff and walked along the top of the ridge. As I walked along, I happened upon one of the greatest birding moments of my life. Immediately behind where I stood the ground was cut by a narrow gorge that dropped about 20 feet. A blooming dogwood grew at the edge of the cut and cast its flowering branches out into space. The creek valley stretched in front of me. Across the way, the slopes of the tree-covered mountains glowed yellow in the sun or dark green where clouds cast their shadows. A few feet away, several small trees grew right at the edge of the bluff. In one tree, four Rose-breasted Grosbeaks foraged among the branches. A pair of Baltimore Orioles perched in the very next tree. And in the tree next to that, a male Summer Tanager was singing his little head off. I reveled in the moment and thought, “Birding doesn’t get much better than this.”

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Ancestral Home of James K. Polk — Columbia, Tennessee

We finished touring The Hermitage a lot quicker than we had anticipated, so we decided to detour 60 miles out of our way to visit James K. Polk’s house. The house was owned by Polk’s parents, and was Polk’s residence for only a couple years while he was in college, but it’s the only house he lived in that still exists. The house next door, once owned by Polk’s sister, is the visitor center.

Unfortunately, it was the only house we could enter on this day. Polk’s house was closed for repairs. There was a filmstrip and a display, and some of the furniture had been moved over, but that was it. As sparse as all this was, both my wife and I felt like we learned more about Polk than we had about Andrew Jackson at The Hermitage. The tour guides only charged us half price. How kind.

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The Hermitage — Nashville, Tennessee

This was the home of Andrew Jackson, although I’ve been told he wouldn’t recognize the place. We arrived early on a Sunday morning and were sent immediately to the house to avoid a coming rainstorm. We were the first people to tour it on this day. We were given listening devices that looked like phones. A recorded message explained what we were seeing.

The house looks impressive from the front, but is actually rather ugly. The Greek revival front is just a face that juts up past the roof. The house wasn’t very large either, and I realized that I was dashing through it, trying to keep up with the recording. Then I figured out I could turn the thing off and on.

The grounds were pretty. (I understand that things were torn up quite a bit by a tornado since our visit.) We looked at the out buildings, including a cabin where the Jacksons lived for several years before the Hermitage was built. The house and grounds were well maintained, but it all felt a bit too commercial for my taste. I didn’t come away with a feeling that I knew Jackson any better.

Jackson’s grave

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Stones River National Battlefield — Murfreesboro, Tennessee

We headed south for summer vacation this year — and we went in April. Who wants to be in the south in the summer? We drove down through Kentucky to Tennessee and stopped at Stones River National Battlefield less than an hour before it closed. This wasn’t a big problem because it isn’t a big park. Most of the battlefield is outside the park, and what is preserved is surrounded by businesses and industries, most of which were pretty ratty looking and many of which were closed. I don’t think there’s a place in the park from which you can’t see warehouses or stores.

We stopped at all the stops, but there wasn’t much to see. The most interesting feature was a section of ground that was broken up with rocks and crevices . It couldn’t have been fun running or dragging a cannon through that stuff.

There were the obligatory rows of cannons in fields, and a national cemetery.

We drove through a commercial district to the portion of the battlefield by the river, then headed into town proper to see Fortress Rosecrans, a large earthen fort that was build after the battle to house munitions, and which was never needed.

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Duluth Harbor Lighthouses — Duluth, Minnesota

As we passed through Duluth, we parked and hung out around the harbor for an hour or so watching tankers heading out into Lake Superior. Each time a ship went by, the aerial lift bridge went up. It was a strange feeling to stand under the bridge as it lowered — having an entire road coming down on our heads.

Aerial lift bridge - Duluth, Minnesota

There were three lighthouses on the breakwaters that lined the harbor entrance. This is the North Breakwater Lighthouse. It began service in 1910. The lens is 43 feet above the lake.

Duluth North Breakwater Lighthouse - Duluth, Minnesota

The South Breakwater Outer Lighthouse was built in 1901. The light is 44 feet above the lake.

Duluth South Breakwater Outer Lighthouse - Duluth, Minnesota

The South Breakwater Inner Lighthouse was also built in 1901. The light is 68 feet above the lake.

Duluth South Breakwater Inner Lighthouse - Duluth, Minnesota

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