Schimpff’s Confectionery

On more than one occasion, when I’ve told people I’ve been to Louisville, they’ve asked if I’ve visited the “old candy store” across the river. I hadn’t, but now I have. The business began in Louisville in 1858 and moved to Jeffersonville in 1891. The two buildings the business currently occupies were built right after the Civil War and have been flooded by the Ohio River on three occasions. The red marks next to the door indicate the flood depths in 1880 (bottom mark) and 1884.

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The left-hand building, with the candy displays and soda fountain, was packed. We fought our way through into the other building. The back half is a museum of old candy packaging and advertising.

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The front half of that building is where the candy is made. Several women were making Modjeskas — marshmallows dipped in caramel — that are named for a Polish actress who performed in Louisville in 1883.

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We bought a box of an assortment of their specialties. The turtles and caramels were good. My wife enjoyed the cinnamon. The Modjeskas didn’t thrill either of us, but our daughter liked them.

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We also bought a bag of amazing toffees.

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Back to the Brown Hotel

Last year, while in Louisville for a conference, I ate a “hot brown” at J. Graham’s Cafe in the Brown Hotel. When I told my wife about it, she said she wanted to go. This time, the hot brown was on the breakfast menu. I ordered an amazing omelette and helped her with her hot brown.

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The guy who was host last year was there again. He, and all the servers, were very attentive and polite. There is a feel that you’re getting an old-fashioned sort of service. He recommended that we look around the hotel, so we did. Here’s the lobby.

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Southeastern Indiana

We drove from North Bend, Ohio to Clarksville, Indiana on the southernmost roads I could find. For much of the time, the Ohio River was visible on our left. It would have been a scenic drive except for the low, gray clouds and constant rain.

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The next three photos were taken in downtown Rising Sun, Indiana.

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The next four photos were taken in Madison, Indiana. Hen & Ben, the Shoe Men went out of business in 1937, but their fame lives on thanks to this ghost sign on the eastern end of town.

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We parked downtown to visit the worst antique store I’ve ever been in. A larger collection of worthless junk, I’ve never seen. But it was filled with people buying Christmas presents.

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We wanted to visit Louisville in the morning, so we found a room at a Comfort Suites across the river in Clarksville. It was more than a little creepy. The hotel was back in a dark corner at the end of a road with four buildings — an abandoned restaurant, a hotel that looked in good shape but was absolutely dark and empty, a Day’s Inn that was open but only had two or three cars out front, and our hotel, which only had four cars in the lot. I walked into the lobby and said to the woman behind the desk, “I’d like a room, and judging by the parking lot out there, I’m guessing you have one.” She shot me a stern look and said, “We do at the moment.”

We headed a couple miles away to a Chick-fil-A for supper, then back to our hotel, which now had an additional car in the lot. I’m pretty sure that no more came in, unless they came in late and left early. I posted the following question on facebook:

When you check into an empty motel, do you think:

A. Good. This will be a quiet night.
B. What does everybody else know that I don’t?
C. I’m probably going to be murdered tonight.

In fairness, the room was somewhat spartan but clean and comfortable.

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North Bend

On a rainy Monday afternoon, we saw the sights of North Bend, Ohio, located at the point where the Ohio River begins heading southwest toward the Mississippi. This tiny town just west of Cincinnati, and Quincey, Massachusetts, are the only towns that have been the home of two presidents. William Henry Harrison moved here after the War of 1812. After his short presidency and death in 1841, his body was brought back here for burial.

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The space inside the monument contains Harrison’s grave. It is open for visitors, but not, of course, when we were there. I could see this much through the double gates.

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Here’s the view of the north bend of the Ohio from Harrison’s monument. Cincinnati is behind those hills on the left, about 20 miles away.

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Harrison’s grandson, Benjamin, was born in North Bend in 1833, on land belonging to his grandfather. This plaque stands in front of the property, although the house no longer exists. Another house is on the site.

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Allen County Museum

We visited this museum in Lima, Ohio for one reason — to see the display of objects that had been swallowed by people. That was enough of a draw for us. It wasn’t a large collection, filling just one case on a hallway wall.

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Here are some close-ups.

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Nearby was an exhibit about John Dillinger. He was arrested and jailed in Lima for bank robbery. On October 12, 1933, three of his gang members entered the Allen County Jail, killed Sheriff Jesse Sarber and freed Dillinger. The four were caught in Tucson, Arizona. Two were sentenced to death, one to life imprisonment and one, Dillinger, was extradited to Crown Point, Indiana where he escaped again.

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We had an hour before the museum closed, so we made a quick tour and saw …

a milk wagon used by a local dairy,

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a 1925 Shay locomotive that was used in, and rescued from, a local stone quarry,

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a reproduction of a local canteen used to serve food to military personnel during World War II,

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a sausage-stuffer from 1852,

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a goblet from Martha Washington’s home,

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and an exhibit of cup plates. A sign explained that “tea drinkers of the last century usually poured tea from cup to saucer to cool. To protect the table, the cups were then placed on little cup plates, which were almost always of highly decorated pressed glass. The cup plates exhibited here were made by the Boston & Sandwich Glass Company on Cape Cod and the New England Glass Company in Boston and Cambridge between 1818 and 1858.” I had no idea.

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Oh, and this lovely clown bank.

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