Apple Valley — Part One

It was only an hour to Sikeston where we were eating lunch, so we had some time to kill. And it was raining. We sat in the parlor of Summers Riverview Mansion while we looked on our phones for something to do in Paducah. At almost the same moment, we each found a place called Apple Valley Hillbilly Garden & Toyland. It looked weird, but we like weird. We asked Henk if he knew anything about it, and he highly recommended it. I thought perhaps we should call in advance to see if they were open on a rainy March Sunday morning, but Henk said not to bother. “Just pull in. Somebody will come out and give you a tour.”

It wasn’t far — or it wouldn’t have been if I hadn’t missed the exit. When we arrived, we found this.

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We parked and began wandering around the yard, but nobody came out of the house. It looked dark inside. It was just a few minutes past 10:00, when the sign said it opened. After getting about as wet and cold as I wanted to be, I tried the door of this little shed. It was opened, and a light was on inside, so I entered.

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It was chaos, but amazing chaos. There were toys and signs and souvenirs and antiques all mixed together into total sensory overload. I figured I wasn’t supposed to be in there, so I started taking pictures as fast as I could before I got in trouble.

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One of the displays behind the wire netting included a hand-written sign that read, “Hung out with Angelina Jolie 1986-1987 — Stuff touch by her …”

I looked it up — Angelina Jolie was 11 at the time.

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I could have spent three days in there reading old magazines and looking through scrapbooks and taking photos. But I figured I was pressing my luck, so I left. The others had gotten their fill of wandering the grounds and we were standing near the cars. My friend walked behind another shed to photograph some turkeys and a dog started barking. A guy came out of the house in a black leather jacket and gray sweatpants and apologized for not realizing we were there. He offered us a tour and we accepted. Our first stop was the shed that I’d already been in.

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His name is Keith Holt, and it turns out that there is some purpose to the chaos. The shed used to be a Gulf gas station run by Keith’s grandfather. At the same time, in the same building, he operated a barber shop, an apple cider store, and a small diner that served fried chicken. Bits and pieces of this history are mixed in with pieces from Keith’s 20 years in Hollywood as a puppeteer, comedian, some-time actor (he played a Romulan in an episode of Star Trek Next Generation), and model train craftsman. One of his goals is to create a tribute to the tacky and odd roadside attractions that were found around America before the Interstates made travel dull. That explained the souvenirs that were on display. Keith talked very fast and gave us a great deal of information in a very short time.

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Summers Riverview Mansion

B&B’s can be iffy sorts of places, in my experience. We once stayed in one in Galena, Illinois that felt like a dorm and didn’t have locks on the doors. We stayed in one in Eureka Springs, Arkansas that didn’t have heat on a night that went down to -2°.

But I was in the mood for adventure, so I reserved rooms for us and our friends at Summers Riverview Mansion in Metropolis. The name doesn’t lie, exactly. We could see the Ohio River if we looked off to the left far enough. But mostly what we saw was the casino across the street.

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Henk and his wife manage the place. They were very friendly and accommodating. Whenever we were out of our rooms, Henk was nearby ready to regale us with stories of the house or the area. When I asked if I could get his picture in the chair, he immediately said yes and then struck this pose.

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A figurehead from an old steamship stares out from an upstairs window. I can’t explain the extension cord that dangles between his eyes.

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The entire home is decorated with antiques.

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That’s the entrance hall above. The dining room is on the left below. Our friends had the room on the right.

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Here’s our room. I didn’t check, but I’m pretty sure there was no mattress on our bed. It felt more like a sidewalk.

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When the hostess took my breakfast plate, I told her I was ready for dessert. She returned with a Hersey’s kiss in a bowl. We very much enjoyed our stay, and although it’s unlikely we’ll ever be seeking another night’s lodging in Metropolis any time soon, if we do, we’ll stay here.

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Fort Massac

I noticed Fort Massac the previous time I was in Metropolis — about 23 years ago — and have ever since had it in the back of my mind to return. So naturally, as I’ve come to expect from Illinois, the fort was closed and unreachable behind a chain-link fence.

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The Spanish may have had a fort near here in the 1500’s. The French did for certain, from 1757 to 1763, at which point the British took over. The British never established much of a presence, which was nice for the American forces under George Rogers Clark who captured the region in 1778 during the Revolutionary War.

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In 1794 the Americans constructed a fort. Aaron Burr and Gen. James Wilkinson met here to draw up plans to conquer Mexico and the American southwest during the summer of 1805. The fort was destroyed by the New Madrid earthquake of 1812, rebuilt and than abandoned. The site, without the fort, was the scene of a troop encampment at the beginning of the Civil War.

What exists now is a reconstruction of the footprint of the 1757 French Fort next to a reconstruction of the buildings of the 1802 American Fort.

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Desperate for a red chair photo, I set it atop the southeast bastion of the French Fort with the Paducah Bridge that carries I-24 across the Ohio River in the background. The trees in the left-distance are in Illinois. Those on the right are in Kentucky.

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The site also includes a statue of George Rogers Clark looking heroically out over the river.

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We pondered the Ohio River for 15 minutes or so, walked around the fence that kept us from the fort, and left. And so goes vacationing in Illinois.

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Big John

Big John is somewhere around 30 feet tall and somewhere around 45 years old. He stands in front of the Big John Grocery in Metropolis Illinois. I am unable to explain the ring on top of his head.

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The Super Museum

In 1959, a fan of Superman began collecting … everything. Much of it is on display in a small museum in downtown Metropolis. Artifacts used in various movies and TV shows are mixed with toys and advertisements and clothing items and kitchen ware and … Some of the stuff was amazing, but it was all jumbled together so haphazardly that the effect is almost instant sensory overload. There are a few hand-lettered signs describing some items, but there’s a great deal that remains unexplained. There’s no way to give a coherent detailed explanation of what we saw, so I’ll just post a small percentage of the photos I took and let you see for yourself.

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