Mississippi River State Park

One of my birding goals, still unrealized, is to see a Swainson’s Warbler in Arkansas. A couple had been reported recently from this park near Helena, and I drove down early on Thursday to see them. The birds were my priority, so I drove past the visitor center to the spot where they were reported and spent about an hour there and at various other spots along the road looking and listening for them without luck. The road was a narrow blacktop through deep and tall woods. It was a cool morning, and the scenery was beautiful albeit Swainson-free.

The park is in, and shares a visitor center with, the St. Francis National Forest. I had to backtrack about six miles to get there.

The enthusiastic woman behind the counter who stamped my passport attempted to get me involved in a second state park program, this one for kids, which involved interviewing a park ranger, writing down safety guidelines, pledging not to litter, etc. I declined. But I did get my fifth passport stamp and earned a Club 52 sticker.

I walked a short trail by the visitor center, then drove south through the park. I had the choice of two roads. I stuck to the paved one that I’d been on earlier, hoping still to hear a Swainson’s. I passed the two man-made lakes in the park — This is Bear Creek Lake.

I think a bit of the park borders the Mississippi River, but I never saw it. I pulled over at an overlook, thinking I could glimpse the water from there, but it was just “the view from Crowley’s Ridge,” and not much of a view at that.

There were a few other short trails I could have taken, and the second, dirt road that runs parallel to the one I took but down in the valley, but that wasn’t the day’s objective.

Track my progress here.

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Woolly Hollow State Park

Woolly Hollow is the closest state park to my house, and I go there often to bird and hike. It’s named for the Woolly family who moved to Arkansas from Tennessee in 1852. Martin Woolly, son of the original settlers, built a log cabin nearby. It was moved to the state park in 1974.

There’s a lake, with fishing piers and a swimming beach. There’s a campground. And there’s a hiking trail around the lake and some bike trails that cut through the woods. Sometimes I walk the lake trail, but when I’m concentrating on birds, I usually walk along the bike trail, thereby probably missing all the good birds.

There’s a scenic waterfall below the dam, but in the spring of 2026, when I took these photos, the water was very low and the falls was unimpressive. You can see how low the lake is.

The birding isn’t great, but I like the park because it’s not usually crowded. I’ve walked the trail at times when I didn’t meet another person.

When I got my passport stamped in the gift shop, the woman behind the counter really, really wanted to give me the Club 52 sticker, but that’s the prize for five stamps, and Woolly Hollow was only my fourth. I felt like I let her down.

Track my progress here.

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Lower White River Museum State Park

If you picture in your head what a state park might look like, you will never picture this place. Located in Des Arc (“The Bend”), a small town with a dead town feel, the “park” consists of one metal building and a parking lot for 13 cars.

I drove over after birding nearby and found the place deserted except for the guy behind the counter. The displays line the walls around a single room. They tell about the exciting things people historically did along the White River — farm, log, go to school, fish. Pretty much the same stuff people historically have done everywhere.

Look online, and the “feature” of the park is this set of four life-size figures on a platform near the door. They aren’t explained, and they aren’t part of any particular exhibit. they just sit there to make the museum look much more impressive than it is.

The one section I found interesting explained the pearl and button industry once based there.

The entire museum took me perhaps 15 minutes to peruse — and I took my time and read almost everything. There was no gift shop, so I said to the guy, “You could at least sell buttons.” He told me there used to be a gift shop, but they “moved it to another park.” You can buy buttons at the Plantation Agriculture Museum, 50 miles west.

Then I asked the guy what percentage of visitors came just to get their passports stamped. He said 95%.

I’m just imagining the process that led to this being a state park. I figure some guy had a rustic museum containing his collection of local artifacts. When he died, his family donated it to the state, which, in a weak moment, accepted. Then they looked at the crap the guy had in his museum and realized there wasn’t much to it. They threw most of it away and tried to make something out of the rest. That’s my guess anyway.

Track my progress here.

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Birthplace of Kermit the Frog

I found out about this place in Leland, Mississippi when I was looking for potential stops on our trip. It sounded like a goofy, fun museum, and we decided to stop. It turned out be be an adventure of a sort. For starters, a huge storm had ripped through the area just before we arrived. When we stopped at the Hampton Inn in Indianola, Mississippi, the computers were down, and I had to fill out a paper form to register. The town was rather lean when it came to dining choices, so we opted for Burger King and ate in our room. Another storm blasted through in the night, but things were calm in the morning. When we went downstairs for the hotel breakfast, they were out of a lot of stuff. We could tell that it had been the exact same choices that we’d been given every morning of our trip, so we weren’t too disappointed. We had a couple hours to kill, so we looked for a breakfast place. There was a spot in downtown Greenville, but when we got there, the neighborhood and the restaurant both looked sketchy. We backtracked 12 miles to the McDonald’s in Leland and ate there.

We got to the Kermit museum about 20 minutes before it opened. It was immediately evident that it wasn’t a large place — certainly not worth a night in a hotel (we were only three hours from home), and three hours of time-wasting on a Wednesday morning in Mississippi. But we were there, and this was very, very, very likely going to be the only time we were in the area.

The front of the building looks nice enough, but when we peeked around the side, the back looked like it was about to fall into Deer Creek.

The reason the museum is here, or so we were told, is that Jim Henson was born in Greenville and lived in Leland for a time as a kid. He used to explore along the banks of Deer Creek, and that’s where he got the idea to create a frog character — or so we were told. The actual reason the museum is here, of course, is that this part of Mississippi has nothing to offer tourists, so this was created to encourage people like us to stop. And it worked. We spent our tourists dollars in two restaurants and a hotel just to see the museum.

I don’t mean to disparage the museum. What there was of it was fun. It consisted of one room with some photos and signs about Henson and his life, a lot of Kermit and other Muppet/Sesame Street character collectibles, and some Kermit photo ops. The lady who worked there was very friendly and probably a little lonely.

If I understood correctly, this (below) is an actual Kermit puppet — one that was used in some of his appearances on Sesame Street, The Muppets, or somewhere. If I didn’t understand correctly, it isn’t.

We read everything, looked at all the photos, took advantage of the photo ops, bought some swag in the gift shop — all of which took about 20 minutes tops — and then headed home.

To borrow a line from Samuel Johnson — It’s worth seeing, but it’s not worth going to see.

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Mobile Bay Ferry

The ferry travels between Fort Morgan on Mobile Point and Dauphin Island across the mouth of Mobile Bay. I found out about it last spring when I birded on Dauphin Island, and it was one of the “must hit” spots on this trip.

On Monday, I asked the woman in the ferry ticket booth if we could expect to drive right up and get on the next ferry. She said mornings were busy, and to guarantee a spot, we should arrive at least 45 minutes early. So we arrived an hour early on Tuesday — and only five of the 18 spots were filled when we left. My wife sat by the shore while I birded the immediate area of the ferry landing, hoping for, but not finding, a Gray Kingbird.

I was a little concerned that we would have to deal with snakes on the ferry, but I didn’t see any.

Here’s the ferry on its way to Mobile Point. I took the first photo on Monday afternoon and the second as the ferry approached the landing on Tuesday morning. Note the oil rig in the background. There were maybe six visible from this point.

Dauphin Island from Fort Morgan. The Gulf is to the left in this photo.

The guy in the light blue T-shirt in this photo was wearing binoculars, so I asked him if he was a birder. He was, from Michigan, and he was pretty intense about it, although fairly new. We had a good chat for the final third of the trip.

Sand Island Light and other channel markers in the Gulf at the mouth of Mobile Bay off Fort Morgan. It’s the southernmost point of Alabama, about three miles off shore. It was built in 1864. The island once covered about 400 acres, but storms and time have eroded it. What’s left is a tiny bit of land mostly made up of granite blocks put there in an attempt to save the lighthouse. While restoration efforts continue, it’s the general consensus that it won’t last much longer.

We hung around Dauphin Island for while — again me birding while my wife sat by the shore. We then headed toward home. We drove through the small town of Bayou La Batre. As we crossed the bridge over the bayou, I noticed several shrimp boats docked along the bank. I mentioned that the town would probably be a good place for seafood, and since it was near lunch, we pulled over and looked. We ended up at a place called Catalina Bayou Restaurant. We split a bowl of crab bisque and a plate of “Big Reds,” deep-water shrimp. Both were delicious. It wasn’t a fancy place, but it was one of those fun serendipitous moments that occasionally happen on vacation.

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