Bird #597 — Brown Booby

sula leucogaster

Cherokee Village, Arkansas — Lake Thunderbird

Monday, September 12, 2022 — 10:20 am

On Friday, a message came through on ARBIRD (the Arkansas birder e-mail group) that a Brown Booby was seen on Lake Thunderbird. The bird was first seen on September 3, so it had been hanging around a while. Lake Thunderbird is in northeast Arkansas, three-and-a-half hours from London, so if I was going to see it, I would have to make a day of it. The guy who posted the report didn’t seem overly confident, so I waited for more news before I made the trip

Birders continued to see the bird, but it wasn’t generating a lot of enthusiasm. I woke up groggy and unmotivated on Sunday and decided not to make the trip. But to incentivize myself I decided that if anyone saw it on Sunday, I’d drive up on Monday. They did, and I did.

It was a 173 mile trip on Arkansas roads, although it’s only 115 as the crow flies. I made it  without incident. There was a huge sign saying that Lake Thunderbird is a private lake for residents only, but I didn’t see any signs relating to the parking lot, so I parked and walked out onto the dam.

If a Brown Booby was seen in Northern Illinois or Central Colorado, it would be easy to find. Just go to the spot and look for the 15-30 birders staring through scopes. But there were no birders at Lake Thunderbird when I arrived. I scanned the lake, expecting that it would be easy to spot a bird as large as a booby if it was flying around. (I found out later this was decidedly not the case.) Some of the photos on eBird from over the weekend showed the booby perched in a pine tree. The only pines I could see were in a small grove on the far shore.

I had left my scope in the car, so I was looking with my binoculars. I’m not sure I would have found anything except that the bird ruffled its wings and the motion caught my attention. When I focused on the spot, I could see a slender bird in the shade, dark against the background of pines. It was facing away from me, but at that distance I thought I’d probably found the booby. I took a few pictures with my camera and confirmed my i.d. I walked further west along the dam which gave me a better angle on the bird and got me a little closer.

It was booby-shaped, with a long yell0w bill and yellow legs. When it preened, I could see the white belly. Once or twice, it stretched out a wing and gave me a good look at the long, slender shape of it.

I walked back to my car to get my scope and met another birder, a woman named Tamalyn who had drive up from Heber Springs. She walked back out on the dam with me, and I was able to show her the bird. It was still in the same place, looking around actively and preening now and again. Finally it took off and headed west. I hoped it would fly a circuit around the lake and give me some good, close looks, but after circling around the far end a few times, then making a quick circle to the east, it landed back on the branch. I didn’t get any worthwhile photos of it in flight because it was very hard to track against the trees on the far shore — and it very rarely flew above the tops of the trees.

Over the next hour and a half, the bird made three more flights. None of them brought it any closer to me. Mostly it circled around a small inlet near its favorite tree. After each flight it landed on the same branch within a few feet of where I first saw it. I managed to get a photo of it taking off on its fourth flight.

The rest of these photos are stills from a video I took of that fourth flight. It dipped down near the water once like it was about to do one of its characteristic plunge dives but it pulled up before it got to the surface. I never saw it touch the water.

Brown Booby is a pelagic bird that is “rare but regular” off southern Florida and southern California, but lately, according to eBird, it’s been showing up on inland lakes around the U.S. and even Canada. I was surprised to see that a few have been spotted in Arkansas in recent years (which explains why there weren’t more birders around). It wasn’t on my radar as a possibility in the state — or anywhere else for that matter — and I certainly didn’t expect to see one perched in a pine tree. I made a significant effort to see it — I left the cabin at 6:30 am and didn’t get back until 4:15 — but I’m glad I went. I couldn’t help wondering if the bird recognized that its surroundings didn’t look much like the open ocean.

As I was leaving another woman (named Betty, I think) walked out on the dam. I told her where she could see the bird (which was once again perched), and later saw that she’d given me credit. So far as I can tell from eBird, those two women and I were the only ones who went there to see it on this day.

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Reptile/Amphibian #36 — Cottonmouth

agkistrodon piscivorus

Wednesday, September 7, 2022 — 7:52 am

Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge, Arkansas

I was driving along a gravel road that ran between a water channel and a swamp when I saw a snake lying in the road. It was small — not more than six-inches long. I could tell it was banded, and I suspected right away that it was a Cottonmouth. I straddled it with my tires, stopped about 10 yards further along the road, and got out of the car.

The snake didn’t move. I could tell by the fat body and the shape of the head that it was a pit viper, and therefore, poisonous. There was tall grass not a foot away, but it made no move to escape. It just laid there with its head slightly raised. I tossed some gravel at it to see if it was alive, and it swiveled its head and opened its mouth. But in the five minutes I was there, that’s the only movement I saw.

I kept at least three feet away as I walked around it taking pictures. It was still there when I got back in the car and drove on. I parked about half a mile down the road and walked back, birding as I went. The snake had left the road, and I didn’t see it again.

Although it was so small that there was little chance of being bitten unless I foolishly attempted to pick it up, I knew it was still very dangerous. And it made me realize that there were much larger ones around.

Update: I saw a much larger one in almost the same place on April 13, 2023.

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Cotham’s in the City

There used to be a Cotham’s not in the city. It was located in a century-old general store in the town of Scott and became known for its huge hamburgers. It became so popular that a second location opened in Little Rock near the state capitol. I was at the original one with my wife and daughter and my sister-in-law and her daughter years ago, but what I most remember about it is that the girls got in trouble. That original location burned down in 2017 and, so far as I can tell, isn’t going to be rebuilt.

Anyway, we went to the one downtown and enjoyed it tremendously and would go again if we found ourselves in that part of town around mealtime.

I didn’t get the famous Hubcap Burger, or if I did, it was a smallish hubcap.

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Old State House Museum

The Old State House was the Arkansas State Capitol from 1842-1912. The vote to secede from the Union in 1861 happened here. After the new capitol was built, this building was used as a medical school and then turned into a museum.

This is at least the fourth time I’ve toured it. I first went with my parents when I was a kid, and for a long time I hung on to a brochure from that visit.  I visited once or twice during family visits in the 1980’s. I went again with a group of men from work when we were in Arkansas for a Baptist pastors conference. And I went on this day with my wife.

The old house of representatives has been restored. There are permanent displays on governors, first ladies’ gowns, and the building itself. Several rooms that usually contain special exhibits were empty this time because — or so we were told by the lonely lady behind the counter in the gift shop — things haven’t ramped back up since Covid. The only special exhibit this time was about the different bands and musicians that have performed in the local arena. It mostly consisted of album covers and so wasn’t all that interesting.

We only saw one other visitor while we were there. The lady in the gift shop made a huge fuss over us. I asked if things were always that slow during the week. She said yes, which explains why she was so very happy to see us. We had a hard time escaping from the conversation.

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The Cliff House Inn

There aren’t a lot of tourist attractions along Scenic Route 7 any more. Dogpatch U.S.A. is closed, as is Booger Hollow. The Cliff House, which I’ve drive past many times, is still there but I’d never stopped — until today.

We drove up for lunch. We were also planning on visiting some stores in Jasper, but the town is closed on Wednesdays.

Anyway, there were people at only one other table when we arrived at the Cliff House, although a few others came later. We picked a table in the corner where we could get a good view out over the valley. A territorial hummingbird kept us company right outside the window.

From the rim of the “canyon” to the Buffalo River at the bottom, it’s 1,414 feet, making this the deepest canyon in the Ozark Mountains. Having moved here from Colorado, that doesn’t seem all that impressive, but it is pretty. The food was good and the view was impressive enough that we are considering making this a go-to place when we have out-of-state visitors. If we have out-of-state visitors.

We also stopped right up the road at Scenic Point where there is a tower on the canyon rim next to a mediocre gift shop. How mediocre? I went in with a itch to buy something and came out empty handed. But we still climbed the tower.

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