Manitou Incline

I’ve been aware of the Incline since we moved to Colorado. Almost everyone I talked to had hiked it at least once. I figured it was something I needed to do sometime, but I hadn’t gotten around to it. I was reminded of it every time I looked up at Pikes Peak from the south end of town. Here’s a shot from the Siamese Twins at Garden of the Gods. The Incline is that slash through the trees on the mountain in front of Pikes Peak.

The Incline was built as a railroad to take supplies up Pikes Peak, then converted to a tourist attraction. After a rock slide damaged part of the track in 1990, the railroad was shut down. Locals began climbing the old rails, which was technically illegal until 2013, when it became a Colorado Springs attraction.

I happened to mention it to my great-nieces when they visited last summer, and they mentioned it to their parents. So when their family came for Thanksgiving, they said they wanted to do it. I made the reservations — necessary because Manitou Springs wants to control how many people climb it (but mostly because they want to force everyone to pay for parking). We drove over the day before Thanksgiving. My daughter and son-in-law came along. We took a shuttle bus to the base of the Incline.

This is not a hike for wimps. Since we’ve lived in Colorado, I’ve heard of several people who have died of heart attacks on the way up.

I knew I wasn’t going to set any records — probably not even for slowest ascent. Within the first few feet, most of my family was out ahead of me. My daughter stuck with me. At first, we were resting every 80 steps, but even that became ambitious when we came to the steeper part.

It snowed for a while as we were climbing, but it didn’t amount to much.

This shot looking down on Manitou Springs gives a good idea of how steep it was.

Looking up and down from the false summit. There were still 300 steps to go.

My great-nephew and son-in-law both made it up in about 36 minutes. My nephew was a few minutes behind them. The rest got to the top around the hour mark. My daughter and I were still far below. I was having my usual problems with exerting myself at altitude — dizziness and the feeling that I was carrying a 20-pound rock in my stomach. But I knew I only had to do this once to be able to say I did it, so I kept going. One thing that made it difficult was the unevenness of the steps. They were slanted in all directions, varying distances apart, and of unequal height. I was unable to get any rhythm going. On the few stretches where they were even — even on a steep bit toward the top — I did much better.

My son-in-law actually came back down to meet us at the false summit and walked back up with us. That was a huge encouragement. When we got about 12 steps from the top, with the family cheering us on, we “sprinted” to the top step. I was feeling fine soon afterward. We’d hiked it in almost exactly 90 minutes.

We descended on Barr Trail, a hike of three or four miles, depending on where you look for your information.

I can’t say I enjoyed the climb, and my ascent certainly wasn’t pretty or swift (I’m not even sure if we spent more time climbing or resting), but I’m glad I did it — once.

I took this shot on the way down.

Posted in Colorado | 2 Comments

Argo Mill and Tunnel

The Argo Mill operated from 1913 to 1943, milling gold brought in from mines in the region. The tunnel was bored straight back into the hillside for four+ miles and connected along the way with several of the mines. The ore was assessed and purchased by Argo before it was milled. The mill building is largely intact, although much of the heavy equipment was removed during WWII and used for the war effort.

We arrived 45 minutes early for the 11:00 tour, parked, and wandered along Clear Creek for a bit. There were maybe 15 people on our tour. The guide did a good job, although I had a tough time not laughing at his hair — basically a crew cut with a triangle patch of longer hair that originated in the center of his skull and hung forward like bangs. We saw the process backwards. When operating, the ore was brought in at the top, just below where the word “gold” is on the top section of the building. It started as chunks about the size of a loaf of bread. It was fed through presses like this one (the original ones were much larger and no longer exist). The canister-looking things on the bottom of each post crushed the ore to the size of ping-pong balls.

Here’s where the original stamp mills were located.

I’m not as clear about the rest of the process. The smaller chunks were worked down through the mill, using gravity (which is why the building was built on a slope). Part of the process was chemical, using mercury and other stuff to separate the gold from other minerals.

The ore dust was finally sifted on four tables like this. When the tables were shaken, the gold actually went uphill and collected at the top.

The mill made a lot of money, as did the workers. But for them there was a cost. The stamp mill was so loud, they all went deaf within months. Supposedly, the noise could be heard in Golden, 25 miles away.

Various drills can be seen on the wall in the background. Our guide explained how they were used in gold mines to bore into the rock. The process created tons of dust that would coat the miners’ lungs and cause fatal silicosis. Many died withing 6 months. Others, particularly smokers whose lungs were coated with tar, lasted 3 years. Doctors would prescribe cigarettes to miners to prolong their lives. One couple on the tour were wearing masks. The guy (in a way that I perceived to be smug but maybe wasn’t) asked if the miners wore masks. The guide said no, because masks didn’t do any good. The dust simply went in from the sides. By the time we got to the tunnel, the couple had removed their masks and never put them back on.

The tunnel entrance was about 200 yards from the top section of the mill. Here’s a map of all the mines that emptied into it. Idaho Springs and the mill are at the far left. Construction of the tunnel began in 1893. It took 16 years to drill 4.16 miles back into the mountain to connect with close to 100 mines. At the Central City end, the tunnel was 1,300 feet below the surface. Ore was carried out in carts pulled by small electric locomotives. The tunnel sloped down slightly to allow for drainage.

It all ended in 1943 when four miners tried to bore through the tunnel wall to access a flooded mine. The water pressure burst through the wall, killing the four men immediately. Water burst down the tunnel, sweeping away equipment and flooding the town. For seven hours, a massive flume of water burst out of the tunnel, destroying houses and anything else in its way. The tunnel and mill never reopened. Most of the tunnel is now filled with four feet of toxic sludge. About 50 yards of it have been drained so tours can enter. A vault door keeps the gunk back.

Another great attraction in Idaho Springs is a statue of cartoon character Steve Canyon.

Here’s the plaque at the base of the monument, and you now know as much as I do.

We ate a delicious lunch at Smokin Yards BBQ. It’s my third time eating there and I like their sauce about as well as any I’ve had. We then attempted to wander the streets of downtown, but couldn’t find a parking space and so gave up and went home. The open spots were posted for residents only. All other spots were filled— and cost money. It seems odd to charge people money to shop in your town, but apparently it’s working.

Posted in Colorado | Comments Off on Argo Mill and Tunnel

A Week in Arkansas

The family rented a house on Petit Jean Mountain in central Arkansas for a week. On our way down, we stopped in Oklahoma City at The American Pigeon Museum. There were three rooms — one on pigeon breeds, one on the use of homing pigeons by the military, and one on pigeon racing. A lot of the items on display were unexplained, and the explanations on the others were hit-and-miss, but it was an entertaining way to spend an hour and break up a long drive. A few live pigeons were in cages behind the building.

On Sunday, I hiked with my brother-in-law at Mount Nebo State Park. That’s Lake Dardanelle down below.

Here’s the house where we spent the week. I tried not to spend too much time there, and when I did, I was often outside around the fire pit.

Shortly after we arrived, I wandered across the road into the state park. The house was directly across from the parking lot for Rock House Cave. When I wandered down on Sunday evening, a choir of young people was giving a gospel music concert deep in the cavern. For various reasons, I suspect they were from a Mennonite church. There were perhaps 30 people in the choir and maybe 10 family members standing around listening.

I walked up the road to track (successfully) two calling Pileated Woodpeckers. I heard a rustling in the woods and spotted a large Coyote walking by not 20-yards away with a large … something in its mouth. My best guess is a chicken.

On Tuesday, I hiked Seven Hollows Trail with my daughter and son-in-law.

There was no water running in the Grotto (or anywhere else). I’ve never seen the park so dry. I almost had the sense that the mountain was broken.

On Wednesday morning, I got up early and took a three-mile walk on the road that loops around the end of the mountain. I did not see another human until the very end of my hike when I spotted a park maintenance worker emptying garbage cans.

Looking west from the overlook.

The now-choirless Rock House Cave

Later in the morning, I walked the Cedar Creek Trail with family members and then explored Bear Cave. This was the most running water we saw anywhere.

In the afternoon, Some of us went to the Rockefeller automobile museum on the mountain, which I’ve toured at least six times before.

On Thursday, six of us drove up Highway 7 to King’s Bluff. There was almost no water running there either, and the trees weren’t turning much, so it was something of a letdown. We did have an enjoyable lunch at a local spot.

On Friday, my son-in-law and I went birding at Holla Bend and Dardanelle Dam. It was one of the slowest birding days I’ve ever had in Arkansas. I suspect the hunters, who were out and about even earlier than we were, chased most of the big birds away. We stopped by Mount Nebo on the way back to the house. This view is looking east. The Arkansas River makes an “S” in the right distance. We were surprised at how small Petit Jean Mountain looked in the distance — a slight rise on the horizon on the right half of the photo.

That evening, family came from all over the state for a birthday party at the house.

We drove all the way home on Saturday, even though we took a round-about way so we could see our daughter in Missouri (and had to drive through a blinding rainstorm on the way). We got home a little after 9:00 pm.

Posted in Arkansas, Oklahoma | Comments Off on A Week in Arkansas

Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

This railroad is the longest (67 miles) remaining narrow-gauge railroad in the world. The narrow gauge allows for tighter turns through the mountains. The trip begins in Antonito, Colorado and ends in Chama, New Mexico. Along the way, it crosses the state border 11 times.

We had assigned seats, but once our tickets were punched, we could sit anywhere we wanted. My wife moved over to the left side of the train, which offered better views, and I wandered back and forth from our car to the open observation car to the platforms at the end of the cars.

The first 15 miles or so were through unexciting sagebrush flats, but then we worked our way up in to the mountains. We bought out tickets last spring and tried to pick a weekend when the colors would be at their best. We may have missed the peak by a few days, but we saw a lot of color and aren’t disappointed.

Sublette Station where railroad workers stayed. We stopped long enough to water the engine. In the first photo, you can see it in the distance across the valley.

Mud Tunnel, 342 feet long. It’s shored up by timbers because the ground is porous. I’m pretty sure one of the opening scenes of the movie Bite the Bullet was filmed right here.

Toltec Gorge in the distance.

Rock Tunnel, 360 feet long.

Monument to President Garfield, erected by railroad workers shortly after his assassination.

Our ticket was supposed to include a hot buffet lunch at Osier, but they claimed they’d recently “had a fire.” There was no evidence of this, but instead of buffet, we were given a bag lunch in which was a wet (not moist, wet) ham and cheese sandwich and some other stuff. We didn’t get a reduced fair. The stop at Osier took about an hour while we ate and milled around and while the railroad workers switched engines. A second trainload of tourists had come up from Chama that morning. Some people from that train and ours returned to their starting station,  while others (us included) went on to the end of the line.

There’s a steep 4% grade from Chama to Osier, so they switched engines so the more powerful one would return to Chama and be available to climb the grade the next morning. Our engine was coupled to the the other train and returned to Antonito.

After we left Osier on our way to Chama, we could see the other train on its way to Antonito. I’m always amazed by how dwarfed trains look in the western landscape.

Looking back at Osier after lunch.

There were many cows in the creek valleys. These were accompanied by a large flock of Brewer’s Blackbirds (hanging out on the fence as the train went by).

The valley along this lake was, I’m almost positive, used for many scenes in Bite the Bullet.

Cumbres. The track ran along Route 17 the rest of the way to Chama. The green sign in the background says “Cumbres Pass Summit Elevation 10,022 feet.”

Three views of Windy Point, supposedly famous because the track runs along a shelf carved out of the mountain. The upper cut with the section of trestle, is the railroad. The lower one is Route 17. We drove that road on our way back to Antonito on the bus.

Lobato Trestle carries the train 100 feet above Wolf Creek.

At one point, I found myself alone on a platform with a conductor. I made the mistake of asking him about his job and got a 15-minute commercial for a train class where participants spend $2,700 for a chance to be a fireman on the engine and be the engineer for about five miles. If the guy was any good at reading body language, he wouldn’t have wasted his time.

When we got to Chama, we immediately boarded a bus to take us back to Antonito. We got the very front seats, which gave us a good view of the mountains as we rode back. The driver cracked corny jokes and told us about stuff along the way. We got back about an hour later than we’d been led to expect. It was a three-and-a-half hour drive home, with a quick stop for a cold Whopper at Burger King in Alamosa.

The train ride was great. I enjoyed it more than Durango Silverton, which goes through more impressive scenery but sticks to the creek side in the valley and so didn’t give long views. Cumbres & Toltec, on the other hand, goes along the ridges or the slopes and gives long views all along the way. Both rides were beautiful, but I prefer this one.

Posted in Colorado, New Mexico | Comments Off on Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad

Southern Colorado “Attractions”

We stayed a night in Fort Garland and then drove south to Antonito to ride the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad (next post). Along the way, we made (very) brief stops to see roadside attractions.

Manassa, Colorado — Birthplace of Jack Dempsey

This one caught me by surprise. We were driving through this small town when I saw a statue of a boxer in a park. It triggered a reminder that I’d heard of a boxer named “The Manassa Mauler.” I wasn’t even sure who it was, but I made a quick U-turn and pulled over. Turns out it was Jack Dempsey, heavyweight champion from 1919-1926. The cabin had nothing to do with Dempsey — it was just an example of an inn along the Santa Fe Trail.

Antonito, Colorado — Cano’s Castle

Odd building constructed by a Vietnam Vet. The silver covering on the towers is from flattened beer cans. Sightseers aren’t allowed in the yard. We didn’t even get out of the car.

Antonito, Colorado — Indiana Jones Bed and Breakfast

This house was used as Indiana Jones’ boyhood home in the movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Apparently it isn’t in great shape and the current owner is trying to raise donations to fix it up. We didn’t participate.

Posted in Colorado | Comments Off on Southern Colorado “Attractions”