Washita Battlefield National Historic Site

We spent Monday night in Elk City, Oklahoma, on old Route 66. In the morning, I left my wife sleeping in the room and drove 30 miles north-northwest to the Washita Battlefield. I arrived shortly before the visitor center opened, so I drove the mile to the actual battlefield and walked the trail.

As the marker says, it was a battle fought between Custer and the 7th Cavalry and the Cheyenne Indians. Many of the Indians had been raiding in Kansas, killing and kidnapping settlers. Since the Indians wouldn’t give up the murderers, and since the warring Indians were mixed in with Indians who claimed to want peace, General Sheridan opted for total war. Custer led his force through a blizzard and attacked the first Cheyenne camp he came upon. It just happened to be led by Black Kettle, who had also been at Sand Creek four years earlier and who had done all he could to promote peace, but he had lost influence over his tribe. There were other villages — Arapaho, Kiowa, and Cheyenne — nearby, filled with warring Indians.

Black Kettle and his wife were killed in the battle, along with about 18 other warriors. About 18 women and children were also killed, mostly by the Osage Indians who accompanied the army as scouts. The U.S. Army lost 22 men, including second-in-command Joel Elliot and his troop of 17 soldiers who pursued Indians toward the other villages, were surrounded, and killed. Custer’s men destroyed the villages and a herd of over 800 Indian horses. Indians from the other villages were threatening, so Custer skedaddled before they attacked. Custer claimed victory, although from a numbers standpoint, it wasn’t much of one, and was considered a hero by many. The battle gave him a reputation as a great Indian fighter.

Anyway, I had the battlefield totally to myself as I walked the trail. Here’s the view from the overlook along the road.

Black Kettle’s camp was set up along the Washita River where the clump of trees is on the left.

A closer view of the camp area, with prayer flags in the tree.

I read a book on the battle shortly after I got home.

I walked through the visitor center museum, bought a few souvenirs, and went back to Elk City for my wife.

We went to the Route 66 museum in Elk City, which turned out to be a bust. There were a few rooms of cars and so forth that were visually impressive but uninformative. Then there were about 15 out buildings filled with local historical society stuff that were a waste of our time. We didn’t even bother with several of them. We passed signs for at least two other Route 66 museums in the next hour or so. At least we only paid $5 each.

We were finally vacationed-out, although we still had six hours to go. We didn’t stop much. My wife took over the driving in Checotah and took us the rest of the way home.

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Bird #601 – Chihuahuan Meadowlark

sturnella (from sturnus, starling, with an added diminutive, so “little starling”) lilianae (after three women named Lilian who were associated in one way or another with ornithologists)

Dallam County, Texas – County Road 1879

Monday, June 24, 2024 – 2:05 pm

On the way home from our trip to visit our daughters and tour Yellowstone, we decided to take the southern route through New Mexico, Texas, and Oklahoma. I didn’t plan the trip very well, and, while I saw some cool birds, I’m sure I  missed a lot too.

In the morning, we visited Capulin Volcano National Monument. I don’t remember why I suddenly thought about the Chihuahuan Meadolark — I suppose I heard a Western Meadowlark and wondered about this new species, just split from the Eastern Meadowlark a few years ago. I checked eBird and saw that they were seen fairly regularly near the tiny town of Texline, Texas, just east of the New Mexico border along the edge of the Rio Blanca National Grasslands.

I decided to make a side trip on county roads (16 miles vs. 11 miles if we stayed on the highway). It was a hot, windy afternoon, the worst time to see birds, but that was when I was there, so I gave it a shot.

We drove through the farmland/grassland, looking for meadowlarks. And we saw a lot of them. Those that stuck around long enough to give me good looks were Westerns, and so were the ones I heard singing. After about eight miles, we turned south on County Road 1879. By this time I had figured this wasn’t to be my day. I wasn’t driving as slowly as I had been, but I still had my window open to listen, and I was still slowing when I actually saw a meadowlark.

Just after we passed a dirt road called O Bar Lane, I heard a meadowlark song that sounded very like an Eastern Meadowlark. I said, “That’s it!” and stopped the car. I soon heard the song again. But because of the wind and the noise it was making, I couldn’t tell where it was coming from. I backed up the car to look at a meadowlark that was perched on a wire along the dirt road and waited for it to sing.

In the meantime, I played the song of both the Western and the Chihuahuan for Sally, and she also distinctly heard both species singing outside. But she thought the Chihuahuan sound was coming from her side of the car and up ahead. She couldn’t figure out why I’d backed up. She was proven right moments later when the bird I was looking at sang a Western song. I pulled forward slowly and saw the Chihuahuan sitting on the bottom strand of a wire fence about 25 yards away. I should have taking a photo through the windshield before I pulled closer to try for a better angle. But I didn’t. The bird flew off low over the field on the west side of the road and disappeared into the grass. When it flew, the tail looked very white, with just a narrow strip of brown down the center. I paid closer attention to the few Westerns we saw after that, and all of them had less white with some brown even on the white feathers.

I played the Chihuahuan song again, and both Sally and I agreed that that’s what we had heard — maybe four times. I was convinced I’d seen my bird.

Later, when we were close to the highway and our birding side trip was about over, I heard a meadowlark make a rattling call unlike the “churt” of the Western, so there may have been a second one.

I’d taken a long shot, and it had paid off. Especially fortunate since this area is in the very northeast corner of its range. But it’s the first lifer in a long time that I haven’t gotten any kind of photo of, and I was also unable to record it because of the wind noise.

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Capulin Volcano National Monumet

On Friday, we drove from Rock Springs to Colorado Springs where we spent two days with our daughter and son-in-law. In the evening, we went out to eat at a German restaurant, then headed downtown where the cars from the Pikes Peak Race were on display. The entire area was packed, and we had to squeeze through the crowds at every step. In the middle of all this, a block was cordoned off so three motorcyclists could do trick jumps off a ramp.

On Saturday, I birded in the morning at some nearby places on the north side of town — Black Forest and Monument Branch. The latter is next to my old workplace, but I didn’t go anywhere near the building. I would have liked to visit some of my other spots, but I was tired of driving — we did over 4,000 miles of it in the 12 days we were gone. Instead, I met and local friend for a 2+ hour lunch, then went to the house and hung out.

On Sunday, we visited a church where my daughter and son-in-law have recently begun going. We at lunch at a crepe restaurant, then spent the rest of the day at the house.

On Monday, we headed south into New Mexico. We had just crossed Raton Pass when we were caught in a traffic stoppage that lasted at least 45 minutes. The most frustrating thing about it was that I could see in the distance cars that had gotten off at an exit a mile or two behind us, driven through town, and were getting back on the interstate a mile ahead. When we finally got moving, we saw that the delay had been caused by a bus that had caught fire.

We headed east almost immediately and headed into the plains. We stopped at Capulin Volcano National Monument. When I lived in Colorado Springs, I was aware of this place, but it never seemed to be worth the almost three hour drive. My visit on this day didn’t convince me otherwise. It consists of a cinder volcano cone, considered one of the most perfect in the world. There’s a visitor center, and a road that winds around the cone to the top. We drove up, but decided not to hike the trail around the rim or the one down into the cone. For one thing, it was very hot. For another, we’d lost 45 minutes due to the bus fire and had a long way to drive. And for yet another, we were still limping from our past adventures.

There wasn’t a great deal to see. Here’s the view from the top.

Here’s the crater.

And here’s what it looks like from the southeast as we were driving away.

To quote Samuel Johnson (in reference to a tourist spot in Scotland), “It’s worth seeing, but it’s not worth going to see.”

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Grant Teton National Park

On Thursday, we drove back to the East Entrance of Yellowstone, our fourth trip on this road. We only stopped once in the park on this day, at LeHardys Rapids on the Yellowstone River. I saw on eBird that Harlequin Ducks are seen there regularly, but on this morning, I could only find a single female. Still … I also finally saw a Dipper.

We drove south out of the park on the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway and into Grand Teton National Park. We never planned on staying long. Our goal was to see the mountains. Here are some of the places (north to south) from where we did just that. They are beautiful, of course, but we still can’t see what the French dudes who names the place imagined they saw.

We stopped at Colter Bay Village, walked around a bit, bought some souvenirs, and, rather spontaneously, decided to eat lunch at the John Colter Ranch House restaurant. We split a burger, a order of nachos, and a piece of huckleberry cheesecake. It was ridiculously expensive, as all food in National Parks is. It was also very tasty, as all food (that I’ve had anyway) in National Parks generally is.

As we drove south through the park, we saw some Bison and a few of the famous Jackson Hole Elk. We also stopped at an overlook above the Snake River, where Ansel Adams took his famous photo. There was a sign board telling exactly where he stood.

Here’s his photo.

Here’s mine.

Naturally, I took it in color. The clouds added a dramatic element.

My wife wanted to see Jackson, so we drove through town without stopping. I know there’s more to Grand Teton than that, but we’d seen what we came to see. Our route south through Wyoming was amazing at first, and we figured we’d lucked on another drive as pretty as our destination, but things soon flattened out. Before we got to our hotel in Rock Springs, the world was flat and brown and dull. We bought McDonald’s and ate it in our room. I wandered around Rock Springs in search of birds, but saw nothing worth the walk.

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Animal #80 – Uinta Ground Squirrel

spermophilus armatus

Lamar Valley – Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 – 10:30 am

As we drove through Lamar Valley at Yellowstone, looking for any animals we could see (but especially for wolves), we saw several ground squirrels run across the road in front of the car. On one of the occasions when we pulled over, my wife said there was one in the grass just below here car window. I got out to try for a photo, but they (there were at least two in the immediate area) kept mostly hidden, with just a glimpse now and again as they dashed between clumps of vegetation. That is until one climbed up in a sage bush about 20 feet away and posed for me.

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