Bird #536 — Middle Spotted Woodpecker

dendrocoptes (from dendron, tree, and kopto, to strike) medius (intermediate)

Sunday, April 21, 2019 — 9:20 am

Boblingen, Germany — hiking trails through the woods along the Panzerstrasse

It is my opinion that this attractive woodpecker has a very stupid name. “Middle Spotted” doesn’t refer to the fact that the bird has spots in the middle of its chest or anything. It just means that there are also Great and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers.

Anyway, my European field guides warned me that the European woodpeckers are very wary and easily overlooked. I found that they acted pretty much like woodpeckers anywhere — occasionally conspicuous and generally easy to find if you listen for tapping and watch for their distinctive flight between trees. I ended up seeing five species in Germany.

The Middle Spotted Woodpecker was climbing and poking about a large tree in the woods. It’s red cap and lower belly and white face and shoulder patch are the key features. It moved about in this same tree for perhaps six minutes, then took off to parts unknown.

I spotted a second individual four days later on my second trip to the woods.

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Bird #535 — Eurasian Jay

garrulus (chattering, noisy) glandarius (of acorns)

Sunday, April 21, 2019 — 9:14 am

Boblingen, Germany — hiking trails through the woods along the Panzerstrasse

In my experience, Eurasian Jays are skittish birds that never let me approach closely and almost always managed to get a branch or two between me and them. And although I did finally get a good look at several, I never got a good photograph.

The first one was the boldest, landing briefly in the middle branches of a large tree in the woods. Before I could get my camera to focus, it took off. But you can still see its basic pinkish-brown color, with black and white wings and face and a blue patch on the wing. They also have a white rump, and on a few occasions when I flushed one off the ground, its size and rump color made me think “flicker.”

I saw them frequently, if not well, along the trails. They seemed to generally be in pairs.

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Bird #534 — Common Chiffchaff

phylloscopus (from phullon, leaf, and skopos, seeker) collybita (money-changer, from its song resembling the chinking of coins)

Sunday, April 21, 2019 — 9:00 am

Boblingen, Germany — hiking trails through the woods along the Panzerstrasse

Right next to the Panzer Kaserne Army base is a fairly large forest preserve with hiking trails. On Sunday morning, I took off with my binoculars and explored.

In a small patch where the trees were low, I found a small nondescript warbler that was olive above and off-white below, with a yellowish eye line. It looked a lot like the Willow Warbler I’d seen in the Old Cemetery on Thursday. But it was singing a very different song.

Once I connected the song to the bird, I heard, and found a few more during my two mornings in the woods. I also realized that a Chiffchaff was the bird I couldn’t identify on Rubble Hill our first morning in Germany. I never did get that one on film, but I recorded its song. Obviously, the song explains the bird’s odd name.

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Bird #533 — Red Kite

milvus milvus (kite)

Saturday, April 20, 2019 — 2:35 pm

Zurich, Switzerland — A4 west of town

I was watching carefully for Red Kites everywhere we went, and I think I’d seen a few earlier on our trip. But I was certain about this one. It was flying over a field along the highway just outside Zurich. It banked at just the right time, giving me a good view of its forked red tail and long, pointed wings.

The only photo I was able to get of a Red Kite was in the woods near Panzer Kaserne as one flew low over the trees. In the photo, you can see the forked tail with a little of the red from the topside showing around the edges. You can also make out the black wingtips, the white center panel, and the dark wing pits.

I also saw them on our drive south of Strasbourg, France and from the ramparts of Hohenzollern Castle in Germany.

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Down from the Mountaintop

The Piz Gloria has the 007 logo painted all over the outside. The inside is decorated in James Bond. There’s a small museum called Bond World 007 that consists of photos, tidbits of information about On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and some photo ops.

The museum was fun because I’ve read the book and seen the movie, but we were up there for the outside view, so we didn’t stay long.

We hung around on the plaza a bit longer, enjoying the view and the Yellow-billed Choughs that were looking for handouts.

We noticed this sign on the way up, so I made sure I got a photo.

As we waited for the cable car to take us back down, we watched the scene from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service where the good guys stage a helicopter attack on Piz Gloria.

On our way down to Birg, we encountered a short Chinese woman who decided she wanted to be where we were and that the way to get there was simply to repeatedly butt into anyone in her way until they moved. She made a lot of headway until she got to me. On her first push, I pushed back a little and got an elbow. She then tried simply leaning against me but I stood my ground. She finally resorted to reaching her camera over in front of me and taking pictures even though the view from the place she’d already reached was identical in every way to the one in front of me. When the ride ended, her companions who were by the door, exited immediately. She panicked and hurried to catch up with them using the tactics of a wrecking ball. I’m sure there’s a cultural explanation that accounted for some of this, but she was way over the top. I have chosen to blame her for the month-long virus I brought home from Europe (the symptoms of which closely matched those of the Covid-19 virus that brought the world to its knees 10 months later).

There’s a expert ski run that begins at Piz Gloria and descends much, if not all of the mountain. We could see the occasional skier pass beneath us as we waited to descend.

Approaching Birg. Most skiers stop here. It also has a restaurant, a gift shop, and the Thrill Walk. There was also an “igloo” restaurant made of snow that interested us, but it catered to skiers and we’d have had to navigate a steep, snow-covered slope to get there and back, so we skipped it.

On our way up in the morning, we’d passed over a section of the “Thrill Walk” that hangs off the cliff below Birg. I determined to experience it when we got back.

Steel grate steps led down perhaps 100 feet from the restaurant plaza. If my estimate is correct, then we were anywhere from 200-300 feet above the snow and rocks below.

I wasn’t sure how I would manage, but quite frankly I found none of it intimidating. Along the walk, there were four sections of “thrill.” The first was a wire walk over a net. The second was a glass floor.

A third section had rollers for a floor. It wasn’t even worth photographing. The final thrill was a suspended wire tube we could crawl through. I wasn’t sure I’d even fit, so I didn’t try. We had to climb back up to the level of Birg through a slanted walkway in a big plastic tube. Living at 6,700 feet in Colorado helped here.

We ate mediocre sausages, cheeseburgers, and fries at Birg, and then descended back to Murren. Here’s the view from Birg, with Murren visible in the center of the photo.

We returned to the hotel for our perfectly-safe luggage and hung out in the lounge for a while, reluctant to leave the beauty. This was the view out the windows — yes, it’s the same view as the day before, but the tops of the mountains aren’t hidden in the clouds.

This is the Jungfrau. The peak seems to be right behind and above the wall in the foreground, but it’s about 5,000 additional feet — nearly a mile — higher and also further away.

The best shot I got of the Eiger (13,026′) and the Moench (13,475), poking up behind the shoulder of the Jungfrau. The woman who runs the hotel came in and said hello. I told her that we were from Colorado, but that her mountains were more beautiful. She agreed, and said they were higher too. Technically, she was wrong. Pikes Peak, which is visible out the windows of our house, is 14,115′. But our house is already at 6,700′ and the slope of Pikes Peak is gradual. Here, the Jungfrau, for instance, rises a sudden 11,030 feet above Lauterbrunnen on the valley floor, making it seem almost incomprehensibly tall.

We finally tore ourselves away and walked back to the train station. A short ride to Grutschalp, a quick cable car trip down to Lauterbrunnen and we were back at the car.

We made a short but courageous trip through the insanely narrow and tourist-crowded streets of the town to see the waterfalls cascading off the cliffs, and then we headed back to Germany.

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