Murren

My daughter booked us a night at the Edelweiss Hotel in Murren, Switzerland, 5,374 feet up in the Alps. To get there, we had to catch a cable car in Lauterbrunnen. We bought our tickets and walked up the stairs to the station. The operator came running up to meet us and take our tickets like he was in a big hurry to leave. He wasn’t. We entered a nearly empty car and stood there for another 15 minutes until the car was packed to uncomfortableness.

The car, once it got going, moved swiftly. The trip took maybe six minutes.

We got off the car and immediately boarded a crowded train for a a 15-minute trip to Murren.

No one is allowed to have cars in Murren, except for those who are allowed to have cars in Murren, of which there are several. We had to walk about 300 yards to the Edelweiss Hotel, perched on the edge of the cliff. Our rooms were on different floors, and both were on the street side. But there was a lounge and deck on the valley side where we go could for views.

Our room. Notice the bed has a thin mattresses and no top sheets. The thick, puffy blanket thing was too hot most of the night, but it was too cold to sleep without any cover. The heater was on full blast when we arrived and the room temperature must have been near 90°. We shut off the heat and opened the window. The outside temperature varied from about 50° when the sun was behind clouds to about 75° when it was out.

The view from our room.

And the view from the deck on the other side of the hotel. The tall mountain straight across the valley is the Jungfrau.

The high peak on the left is the Eiger. The dark, shadowed part on the left is the famous Eiger Wall, the north face that is considered one of the toughest climbs in the world.

The small community down in the valley is Stechelberg, 2,700 feet below.

We set off to explore the town. It wasn’t as touristy as I expected. There were several hotels, but only two gift shops. (The interesting-looking one was closed both days we were there.) And no fudge shops!

It was Easter weekend, and there were a lot of decorations around.

We ate dinner in the restaurant connected to our hotel. We arrived around 6:30 and distressed the hostess when we told her we didn’t have reservations. She wasn’t sure what to do or say, so I simply asked when her next open spot was. She said 7:30, so we made reservations for then and hung out in the lounge.

Apparently the Swiss are famous for fondue, so that’s what I ordered. I wasn’t thrilled. The bread cubes were so hard I had to stick them on my fondue fork by hand. And the fondue had an overabundance of cooking alcohol which drowned out the flavor of the cheese.

My wife’s food was delicious.

We were pretty tired after dinner, so we headed to our rooms and shortly thereafter to bed. We were still tired from our travels the day before, so we slept soundly, except when we were too hot and had to put on the puffy blanket or too cold and had to take it off.

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Bird #530 — Great Crested Grebe

podiceps (from podicis, vent, and pes, foot) cristatus (crested, plummed)

Friday, April 19, 2019 — 1:40 pm

Thun, Switzerland — Aare River

I spotted this large grebe swimming and diving in the Aare River as we walked back to the car.

It’s black crest, white face, and reddish “ears” were beautiful. It stayed under for long periods, often coming up 30 yards or so from where it submerged. Its general direction was the same as ours, so it stayed in view for several minutes.

I found another one in the Langer See in Boblingen, Germany on Sunday afternoon.

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Bird #529 — White Wagtail

motacilla (wagtail) alba (dull white)

Friday, April 19, 2019 — 1:30 pm

Thun, Switzerland — Schadau Castle on Lake Thun

This one surprised me. In North America, White Wagtails are generally vagrants down from Alaska. I assumed they were arctic birds. So when I spotted one walking on the lawn in front of Schadau Castle, I got excited. Turns out that in the rest of the world, they can be found anywhere from Iceland to southern India.

It was a striking black and white bird that lived up to its name as it walked across the lawn.

I saw it, or another one, along the Aare River a few minutes later and one along the Langer See in Boblingen, Germany.

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Bird #528 — Eurasian Coot

fulica (coot) atra (dull black)

Friday, April 19, 2019 — 1:00 pm

Thun, Switzerland — Aare River

We spent a night in Murren, Switzerland. On the way, we drove into the town of Thun and walked along the Aare River and Lake Thun for maybe an hour.

There were several Eurasian Coots in the river and along the shore of the lake. They looked very much like American Coots except that the white on the bill extends up the forehead in a shield.

I saw others during the week in the Langer See in Boblingen and along the river walk in Strasbourg, France.

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To Switzerland We Go

We headed south toward the Swiss border, an hour and a half away. We drove on the autobahn, which included many stretches where drivers can go as fast as they want. This is the “no speed limit” sign.

I’m not a big fan, at least from the taste of it I got in Germany. On long, empty stretches, yes — like I-70 through eastern Utah. But in Germany, there were towns, tunnels, and other reasons for speed limits every couple miles. We’d hit one of the no-limit stretches and get flying and then, a minute later, everyone was braking. And while my daughter kept her car under 100 mph, there were other drivers who definitely didn’t. On many of the no-limit stretches, there was too much traffic and too great a contrast between the fastest and slowest speeds for drivers to have any reasonable chance to avoid disaster if anything happened.

Speaking of tunnels. They were everywhere. We must have gone through at least 30 in Germany and Switzerland during the day. Some were a couple miles long. In Europe, they tunnel through hills that in the U.S. would just be blasted into a trench. There were even a couple places where it don’t look like there was more than four or five feet of land above the tunnel.

My first impression of Switzerland wasn’t a great one. We didn’t have to stop at the border, but we did have to pull into a gas station right afterwards so my daughter could buy a sticker for her car that registered her in the country. There was a long line for the single outside bathroom. The facilities were only for customers, so technically you’d have to go inside and ask the attendant for the key. But since there was a line, each person would simply hand the key to the next person in line. Until the woman who used it before us. She refused to hand over the key and made some sort of statement that I interpreted to mean that the bathroom was only for customers. Maybe she was upset that she had to wait in line behind people she didn’t feel were worthy. Anyway, she made a big show of taking the key inside. None of the people behind me were speaking English, but I could tell they thought the woman was an idiot. My daughter followed her inside, got the key as soon as she’d handed it over to the guy, and came back out. We then resumed the normal, human behavior of handing the key to the next person in line.

We drove through Zurich, although I didn’t see much of it. European highways, when they aren’t in tunnels, are often lined with fences, hedges, or grass-covered banks. What I could see looked like a typical city. Not long after we cleared the city, we saw the Alps. We drove up through a pass and then down into Interlaken and along Lake Thun. You can get some idea of the beauty from the video I took above, but the back seat of a Volkswagen is not the ideal filming platform from which to capture the scenery.

We parked in downtown Thun and walked along the Aare River to where it empties into the lake.

There’s a park at the point, with an old church and a castle. The church is the Scherzligen Reformed Church. I tried to find some information on it online, but could only find this: “2012 marks the church’s 1,250th anniversary. This simple church is a popular wedding venue. The nave with its Romanesque walls hugs the excessively constructed Gothic choir, which almost seems to supplant the tower from an earlier period. This gradation lends an impressive note to the building’s construction. The church is one of the twelve Millennial Lake Thun Churches. An earlier church built on the site is mentioned in an 8th-century document. Until the Reformation, it was a pilgrimage church for Marian devotion. The interior is decorated with wall paintings of national importance from the 13th to the 16th centuries.” And that leaves me with more questions than answers. For instance, is the actual building 1,250 years old, or just the congregation? Being from the U.S., I’m not used to seeing things that are more than 1,000 years old.

Schloss Schadau (Schadau Castle) was built in 1854 for a banker. I’m not sure I’d want to give my money to a guy who was able to buy a place like this. The building was closed for renovations when we were there. It currently houses a restaurant and the Swiss Gastronomy Museum.

This is the view from the front of the castle (minus the green and pink fence and the picnickers).

More shots of Lake Thun and the Alps.

On the way back to the car, we stopped in what we thought was a cafe to get something to tide us over until supper. They only had wrapped pastries, but they accomplished what we needed them to accomplish. We were soon on our way to the Lauterbrunnen Valley.

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