New Harmony Utopia

We spent the morning in New Harmony, a village in extreme southwestern Indiana that is very pleased with itself. I won’t go into a lot of details, but here’s an overview. New Harmony was established in 1814 by the “Harmonie Society, a group of German dissenters led by George Rapp. The Harmonists believed that Christ’s second coming was imminent. They pursued Christian perfection through every aspect of their daily conduct, and created a highly ordered and productive community.”

The Harmonists built many of the old buildings in town and lasted all of 10 years until Rapp decided to sell the town and move back to Pennsylvania.

New Harmony was purchased by Robert Owen, who hoped to “establish a model community where education and social equality would flourish.” A bunch of scientists, philosophers, feminists and other intellectuals gathered here and … three years later gave up.

In other words, neither bad theology or humanism is capable of creating Utopia. Go figure.

The town, much of which is an Indiana State Park, likes to pretend that it’s still Utopian.

We began our tour at the Atheneum Visitor Center which is oddly designed in stark contrast to everything else in town.

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We entered and were greeted by a y0ung man who seemed a bit confused about why we were there. I had to explain that we wanted to learn more about New Harmony. He said there was a video we could watch for $3 each. He led us up a ramp and through a door into a theater which we had entirely to ourselves. He played a 12-minute video that gave a sketch of the history of the village that doubled as a propaganda piece. If we found out nothing else and took the video at face value, we would have left believing the Utopia was still going strong.

I expected that we would be led to an exhibit hall where we could find out a great deal more, but instead the young man escorted us past this model of the 1822 brick church, built in the form of a cross.

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He then led us up a flight of stairs to a model of the entire town in 1824.

We gazed upon it for perhaps seven minutes while we asked questions. To be fair, the guy knew his stuff and answered our questions thoroughly. But we were surprised to discover that that, as they say, was that. There was nothing else in the building except a gift shop. It seemed to us to be a great deal of building for very little purpose. As you can see in the photos, there was a tremendous amount of emptiness. A garage would have been sufficient.

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On the way out this door, I spotted this blackboard. Apparently nobody has quite figured it out yet.

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We walked about the old town where many of the original buildings have been restored. At times, they are open for tours, but not when we were there, of course.

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The granary, built in 1818 and used by both “utopias.”

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We kept running across plaques with sayings like this:

“A culture that does not teach prayer soon runs mad with desire.”

“And in the beginning was love. Love made a sphere: all things grew within it; the sphere then encompassed beginnings and endings, beginning and end. Love had a compass whose whirling dance traced out a sphere of love in the void: in the center thereof rose a fountain.”

In other words … nonsense.

We happened upon the “Roofless Church,” an ugly dome-like structure where people can go to be ambiguously spiritual.

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It was located within a brick courtyard with some goofy art.

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And some even goofier art.

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There were two labyrinths in town. The first was just a metal circle with lines printed on it. “Suggestions” at the gate recommended taking 20-30 minutes to walk to the middle to “think, listen, reflect; then walk out.” It went on: “While on this mindful path, use all that is happening as messages for your life’s journey.” I’m suppose to accept all, even unanswered questions “like books that are written in a very foreign tongue.” I’m not supposed to seek answers but to live the question.  It was raining by this time, so instead we decided to seek dryness in our car.

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We drove through town to another labyrinth, this one built of hedges. But convenient gates allowed us to walk right to the middle, bypassing the questions and the meditation and the uncertainty and settling for a red chair photo. (Although my wife does seem a bit confused.”

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It was all very New Agey and touchy-feely and sad because none of it was based on biblical truth. There is no Utopia on this earth. It, and everyone living on it, has been cursed by sin. For those who trust in the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ, a perfect, glorified eternity waits in heaven. And that is the only answer there is.

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Donut Bank

We grabbed some healthy breakfast items at the “free” Hampton Inn breakfast and then headed through Evansville, Indiana for some “good” breakfast at Donut Bank.

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I don’t understand why the donuts at almost any shop in California, Ohio or Indiana are so much better than the donuts at the “best” donut shops in Chicagoland. These were very tasty.

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Santa Claus

I happened to mention to my wife that we would be near Santa Claus, Indiana and she immediately insisted that we stop. I did a tiny bit of research and saw that there was a “Santa Claus Museum.” I thought a quick trip to see the history of St. Nick might be interesting.

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It was only a couple miles from Lincoln’s home. We drove through town and saw Holiday World (closed for the season), the Santa Claus Lodge and a Subway … and that was pretty much it.

I turned around and tried again, and, with some help from GPS, found the museum. We were the only visitors. There were three buildings on the grounds — an old Santa Claus post office where kids could write letters to Santa, an old church that was built in 1880 and is available for anyone who wants to get married in Santa Claus …

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and the museum — which turned out not to be about Santa Claus, the fat guy in the red suit. It was about the town of Santa Claus, and particularly about how quaint and delightful it all is. We were there about 10 minutes.

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We learned how the town got its name. It’s a very exciting story.

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Yes, they did spell the name of their own town incorrectly — in a museum dedicated to that town.

We learned about a guy who used to be the local Santa and we saw a couple cases of exhibits from when Holiday World used to be called Santa Claus Land. Here’s a photo of about a third of the entire museum.

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It all seemed rather self-absorbed.

There is also a large cement statue of Santa, built in 1935 and sometimes billed as the oldest Santa Claus statue in the world. The guy who put it up claimed it was erected on the site of a meteor landing. He also said the star at the base represents the Star of Bethlehem.

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The base has engravings on three sides.

“Dedicated to the children of the world in memory of an undying love
December 25, 1935 — Carl A. Bennett”

“Honour thy father and thy mother that thy cup of life may be overflowing with happiness”

“Life hath given thee nothing more sweet than the patter of feet across the floor”

Either Santa speaks in Elizabethan English, or (more likely) Bennett confuses his mythology with his theology.

And that was it. We had done all we came to do. It wasn’t even 2:00 yet. The woman in the gift shop reminded me that we were in the central time zone — although she referred to it as “slow time.”

She also told us we should go see the Christmas Store. And since we had finished our plans for the day far ahead of schedule — and my wife’s always up for a Christmas Store — we drove to an as-yet-undiscovered part of town and parked. Here we saw the new post office.

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And the Santa Claus Christmas Store where we wandered for about 20 minutes. As you can see from this photo, the town has a lot of Santa Claus statues.

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We also saw the entrance to Santa Claus Land of Lights. We were told that it was well worth the $13 admission because “they have over a million dollars of lights.”

We had almost three hours to kill. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast at the Brown Hotel, so we considered the local options. There were four. Subway, which my wife can’t stand. Two pizza places that got very low ratings on the internet. And the dining room at the Santa Claus Lodge, which was rated as mediocre. We drove over to take a look. There were several more Santa statues on the grounds, and I grabbed the opportunity for this photo.

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The lobby of the lodge was empty. We could hear a couple women chatting somewhere, but they never came out. The restaurant was in the basement. We wandered down a flight of wooden stairs and found ourselves in a small room with pine paneling, a buffet counter and empty chairs. The whole set-up looked as though it hadn’t been changed one bit since 1963. My wife took one look and said “no.” We didn’t see a single person during our entire time in the building.

And that was it for the local food options. There was a Kroger, and we debated wandering the aisles and finding stuff we could much on while we sat in our car for two-and-a-half hours. There was one other choice. The town of Dale, on the Interstate nine miles away, had a Wendy’s. I don’t care for Wendy’s. It’s on my list of “Only if there are no other options” restaurants. Which was the case. And so we drove to Dale.

The Wendy’s was a couple miles outside town, by the Interstate exit. It looked lonely, and we were the only patrons for most of our visit. I took a photo of the parking lot from our table.

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We tarried as long as it is possible to tarry over a meal at Wendy’s and then drove back to Santa Claus. We still had an hour to wait. We parked where we could see the entrance to Land of Lights and read and ate candy from Schimpff’s. There was a Christmas Tree in lights next to our car. We were very excited to see what it looked like when lit. And we were not disappointed.

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Before it got dark, it was the local hangout for Starlings.

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I was restless and got out to wander. I found this sign next to the Kroger. I don’t skateboard, but it would almost be worth it to be arrested by Santa.

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And yet another Santa statue.

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Finally it was time. We were the third or fourth car into Land of Lights. I tuned the radio to a Christmas Music station and … (I taped my iPhone to the roof and took a video, but it’s too long to put on my blog. Sorry.)

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The displays told the story of Rudolph and were well done. My wife thought it was well worth the wait and the expense, so I’m happy.

There was also a bonus. With our admission to the light show, we received a coupon for a free photo with Rudolph. I couldn’t pass that up, so we returned the the Christmas Store.

The girl at the register thought I was certifiable, but I had the coupon, so what could she do?

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I set my GPS for a Hampton Inn in Evansville, about an hour away. When we got there, I had no idea where we were in relation to the town, but it was a fine and comfortable night.

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Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial

This park was nearly empty on this overcast, cool December afternoon. So much so that the National Park rangers decided it was a good day to wax the floors and we couldn’t enter half the building — one of those outrageous memorial buildings our forefathers were so fond of.

Thomas and Nancy Lincoln moved here from Kentucky in 1816, when Abraham was seven. They farmed 160 acres. Two years later, Nancy died of milk sickness after drinking milk from cows who had eaten white snakeroot. Thomas returned to Kentucky and came back with a new wife, Sarah Bush Johnston, and her three children. In 1830, the Lincolns moved to Illinois.

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The limestone exterior includes five sculpted scenes from Lincoln’s life.

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You could easily come to the conclusion that there’s a religion that worships Lincoln.

Thomas Lincoln made this cupboard.

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White snakeroot, the plant that killed Lincoln’s mother.

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There was also a very pleasant room dedicated to Nancy Hanks Lincoln.

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The foundation of a cabin the Lincolns built in 1829 has been discovered and reconstructed in bronze.

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The hearth from this cabin has been reconstructed in the visitor center.

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Nancy Hanks Lincoln’s grave.

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A “living” historical farm, made to look like a typical farm in the 1820s, has been constructed in the park, but the only things living there during our visit were some hungry chickens.

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The spring used by the Lincolns is barely within the borders of the park.

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From the farm back to the visitor center, we walked the Trail of Twelve Stones.

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About stone six, I began predicting where the next stone would be from, and I got five of the six right.

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Schimpff’s Confectionery

On more than one occasion, when I’ve told people I’ve been to Louisville, they’ve asked if I’ve visited the “old candy store” across the river. I hadn’t, but now I have. The business began in Louisville in 1858 and moved to Jeffersonville in 1891. The two buildings the business currently occupies were built right after the Civil War and have been flooded by the Ohio River on three occasions. The red marks next to the door indicate the flood depths in 1880 (bottom mark) and 1884.

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The left-hand building, with the candy displays and soda fountain, was packed. We fought our way through into the other building. The back half is a museum of old candy packaging and advertising.

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The front half of that building is where the candy is made. Several women were making Modjeskas — marshmallows dipped in caramel — that are named for a Polish actress who performed in Louisville in 1883.

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We bought a box of an assortment of their specialties. The turtles and caramels were good. My wife enjoyed the cinnamon. The Modjeskas didn’t thrill either of us, but our daughter liked them.

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We also bought a bag of amazing toffees.

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