Bird #509 — Eurasian Blue Tit

cyanistes (dark blue) caeruleus (cerulean)

Thursday, April 18, 2019 — 11:21 am

Stuttgart, Germany — Birkenkopf (Rubble Hill)

A couple of these colorful, lively birds were moving through the trees above the trail on Rubble Hill. They were just a shade larger than a Black-capped Chickadee, with the same basic shape. But the color was decidedly different. They had a yellow breast and belly, a greenish back, and various shades of blue on the wings, tail, neck, and cap. Their white cheek is divided by a black line.

The photos of the first ones I saw were poor, as the birds were silhouetted against a mid-day sky. But I saw many, many others during my time in Europe. They were all over in the woods near Boblingen, frequently in the company of Great Tits.

The most enjoyable sighting was at Hohenzollern Castle. One was perched in the very top of a tree off the walkway around the castle. It was high above the valley in the background.

From the tree, it flew to the castle wall and poked into a crevice, although I’m not sure if it was foraging for insects or looking for a place to nest.

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Bird #508 — Common Wood-Pigeon

columba (pigeon, dove) palumbus (wood pigeon)

Thursday, April 18, 2019 — 11:19 am

Stuttgart, Germany — Birkenkopf (Rubble Hill)

We’d only walked a little way up the trail to the top of Rubble Hill when I spotted two large pigeons chasing each other through the woods. They landed long enough for me to get a photo of one of them. They were nearly as large as a crow — half again as large as a Rock Dove — and very plump. They had white patches on the sides of their necks and obvious white patches on their wings that flashed when they flew. Their heads were slate blue and their chests a pinkish-violet.

I saw them frequently and heard their dove-like cooing often. They were hanging around on rooftops in downtown Strasbourg, France, foraging along the Aare River in Thun, Switzerland, and very frequently in view in the woods near Panzer Kaserne in Boblingen Germany.

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Bird #507 — Common Buzzard

buteo buteo (buzzard)

Thursday, April 18, 2019 — 11:16 am

Stuttgart, Germany — Birkenkopf (Rubble Hill)

At Rubble Hill, a path spirals up the hill through the woods to the highest spot in Stuttgart. We had just parked and crossed the road to the trail when I spotted a Common Buzzard circling low overhead. It was obviously a buteo. Through my binoculars, I could see its streaked breast and the dark terminal band on its tail. I could also pick out the pale mid-wing bands that stood out in the darker section of its wings. It was moving too fast for me to get a photo.

A few hours later, at the Ritter Chocolate Museum in Waldenbuch, I spotted another one chasing and being chased by an Eurasian Kestrel. The two birds seemed to be almost playing as first one, and then the other, was the chaser.

Later in the week, I repeatedly spotted two that hung around the woods near Panzer Kaserne. The trees were thick, so it was hard to photograph the birds. Either they were too low for me to have time to focus, or too high for my camera to pick them out. One morning, I saw one glide down through the trees and land on the ground alongside the path. I got off a few photos as it took off again.

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Birkenkopf (Rubble Hill)

Our daughter and son-in-law were amazing tour guides. Our plane landed at 9:10. We connected with them about half an hour later. We made a quick stop at their apartment to drop off luggage, and by 11:15, we were out seeing stuff.

Our first stop, after a 13-minute drive, was Birkenkopf (literally Birch Head), the tallest hill in Stuttgart, Germany. That makes the top almost 1,000 feet above the main city. And that’s 130 feet taller than the hill used to be. During World War II, 45% of Stuttgart was destroyed during 53 allied bombing attacks. In the mid-1950’s, the rubble from the  destroyed buildings was gathered and dumped on the top of Birkenkopf. Huge piles of building stones cover the summit — many of which are recognizable to anyone familiar with prewar architecture.

The plaque says basically, “This mountain after World War II, piled up from the ruins of the city, stands as a memorial to the victims and a reminder to the living.”

A bike path spirals up the hill through woods. I managed to see my first five European birds by the time we’d reached the summit.

There’s an impressive view of the city from the top. Stuttgart is the sixth largest city in Germany, with a population around 624,000.

But mostly, there’s rubble.

The iron cross was put up in 2003 to replace the original wooden one that was in poor shape.

We stayed about 45 minutes and then were off to further adventures.

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Going to Germany

Ever since my daughter and son-in-law moved to Germany in the summer of 2016, we’ve been planning a trip to visit them. Finally our plans worked out. We left at 6:30 am Mountain Time on a Wednesday morning. We parked in the remote Pikes Peak lot (for $8/day) and took a shuttle bus to the terminal. We were flying Delta, which must have the slowest, least efficient boarding method on the planet. We actually began boarding a full hour before our 10:30 take-off. On the good side, Delta has TV screens built into the back of the seats, so I was able to watch Johnny English Strikes Again during the three-hour flight. I also squeezed in the first episode of the new season of Last Man Standing with the new actress playing Mandy. I was disappointed.

Our layover in Atlanta was more than two hours. By the time we found our new gate, it was after 4:00 local time. We bought sandwiches at Subway and waited for another laborious boarding. When we finally made onto the plane, we had a short row of two seats next to the windows over the wing. We noticed right off that the seats are as tiny and the leg room is as inadequate on international flights as on domestic flights. Who cares if the passengers are comfortable, as long as there are a lot of them.

A flight attendant came by with a plastic tub full of napkins and a pair of tongs. She carefully pulled out a hot, wet napkin and handed it to us with the tongs. We looked at each other and laughed, not sure what it was for. We saw other passengers wiping their hands, wiping their arm rests, wiping their fold-down trays. We did all three, just to conform. Another attendant came by and gave us each an eye shade.

I had been excited about watching as we flew over the coast and out over the ocean, but when I looked at our flight plan on the screen, I saw that we were headed north all the way to Newfoundland before clearing land. Beside, we were high above the clouds. Through a short break in the cover, I think I saw a slice of Chesapeake Bay but shortly after that it got dark and I couldn’t see another thing until after dawn. So I watched Big on the seat-back screen.

The flight attendants offered us a hot supper of chicken and potatoes. It kept us from starving, but that’s about all I can say for it. Along with the main course, we got an inedible roll, a couple pieces of cheese, a cookie, four grapes (Really. I counted.) and a small salad.

Each of us was given a small pillow and a thin blanket. We tried to sleep, but the seats were so uncomfortable that neither of us managed to knock off for more than a minute or two. I gave up after a couple hours and used the pillow for lumbar support. I watched three more episodes of Last Man Standing and then started Ferris Bueller’s Day Off. My wife was reduced to playing trivia games on the seat-back screen.

Our flight attendant was German and had a way about her. She seemed really unfriendly most of the time, but once or twice she smiled and did something kind. About an hour before landing, we were given a boxed breakfast of yogurt, a muffin, and a piece of cheese. The attendant offered me coffee, tea, or water. I asked for a Diet Coke. She stared at me like I’d just asked if I could go outside and dance on the wing. Then after a three or four second pause she said, “My sister drinks Coke in the morning, so I’ll get you one.” And she did. But that was the last time she seemed at all friendly.

After dawn, the clouds broke. I could look down on Europe. According to the flight plan on the screen, I was seeing Belgium. I also saw when we crossed a couple ranges of hills and passed over the Rhine River.

We landed at 7:50 am local time, which was 11:50 pm the night before in Colorado. We made it through customs without incident. The agent asked me the purpose and duration of our trip and then waved me through. My wife got a third question she didn’t understand, but when she responded with confusion, she was also waved through.

Our daughter wasn’t waiting for us as we expected. We soon found out that the phone number we had for them was wrong. But we didn’t panic. We waited in the terminal and after a couple minutes, they showed up.

We piled into their Volkswagen and set off through Stuttgart. Right away, I learned my first German word — ausfahrt. It means “exit.” The exclamation point sign is a warning. The word beneath it, strassenschaden, means “road hazard.” The snowflake sign basically means “icy when wet.” The numbers are speed limits, in kilometres, of course. I spent a lot of time in the next eight days in the back seat of a Volkswagen. I entertained myself by trying to decipher the meaning of signs.

We headed for the apartment in the Panzer Kaserne Barracks. The buildings were originally built in 1938 for the German Army and were used by tank brigades during the war. They’ve all been remodeled and modernized, so there’s very little “old” feel. I was astounded (and still am) to discover that the gate guards at all the U.S. military posts are German. We had to hand over our passports every time we entered the post, and every time, the guard had to check to see we were on the list.

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