Cedar Breaks National Monument

There was nothing quick about our drive across Utah. Our general direction was southwest, but we spent a lot of time going in every other direction except, perhaps, straight east. Almost every stretch of it was stunning, and we didn’t even mind the rain that followed us for much of the day.

Cedar Breaks National Monument is above 10,000 feet. There was snow on the ground and snow on the paths, but the roads were clear. The park had shut down for the winter — the visitor center and bathrooms were closed — but we could still get to the overlook.

The late afternoon sun painted the rocks with their brightest colors. The only other people there were three young couples traveling together who were taking turns photographing each other with their eyes closed.

We stayed perhaps 10 minutes. It was getting late, and we still had a fair distance to drive. But even that brief view was worth the effort.

I’d made reservations at a Hampton Inn in St. George, Utah. I’d never heard of St. George and figured it to be a small town. When we arrived, I stopped at a Hampton Inn. Turns out there are two in town, and I was at the wrong one. I headed another six miles south to an exit just two miles from the Arizona border where there was a very new Hampton Inn. We checked in and then looked for a place to eat. We ended up at Habit Burger, a Five-Guys-type place back by the first Hampton Inn.

It seemed like everything in town was at that exit except our Hampton Inn. We ended up there again the next morning for breakfast at Waffle Love.

This was the view from our room, looking north — taken two days after we arrived.

We had some time to kill in our hotel. I don’t remember why we didn’t drive the 34 minutes it would have taken us to get into Nevada.

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Capitol Reef National Park

At some point on Saturday evening, My wife asked me if we were just driving again on Sunday. That had actually been my plan. We had reservations at a hotel in St. George, Utah, and I figured we’d head that way with maybe a brief stop at Cedar Breaks National Monument.

But when she asked that question, I began to ponder. I had plenty of time to kill in the hotel room, so I looked at our options. I found another route, a much less direct one, that would take us right through Capitol Reef National Park, along the edge of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, through a bit of Bryce Canyon National Park, and still allow us to see Cedar Breaks National Monument.

We left shortly after dawn and were soon on a two-lane blacktop through the middle of nowhere. We reached Capitol Reef around 9:30, with very little idea of what there was to see there. Before we’d even gotten to the main part of the park, we saw a sign for the Hickman Bridge trailhead and decided to begin adventuring.

The cottonwoods along the Fremont river were at peak fall splendor, and the back-lighting from the sun made the colors electric.

The trail climbed up a bluff, dipped down into a wash, and twisted around cliffs.

There were other people on the trail, but not many. It wasn’t difficult to get photos without them. The bridge was impressive. We saw several others during the week, but this remained one of my favorites.

A view of the Fruita Historic District from the bridge trail.

We drove a short way down the road and stopped again to see the petroglyphs on the cliff. The figures of animals and people were done an estimated 700 years ago by local Indians.

We stopped at the Gifford house, built in 1908 by a Morman polygamist. The last owners moved out in 1969. It’s now a gift shop that sells fresh baked pies. I got triple-berry. My wife got cherry. Both were amazing.

We drove the scenic drive along the Waterpocket Fold, a ripple in the earth’s surface. There were two narrow dirt roads leading off the main drive, and we explored both of them.

We felt like we were alone in the world, but at the end of both drives, there was a crowded parking lot. We didn’t get out to explore because we still had a long way to drive.

As we were leaving the park, gray skies closed in and it began to rain.

Capitol Reef was by far the least-crowded of the National Parks we visited. That probably accounts for why it was one of my favorites. That and the pie.

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Utah Vacation — Day One

It’s been a long time since we just took off for an extended vacation. When we decided to do it this year, Sally couldn’t get off work until the last week of October. That was later in the season than we wanted to go, but it helped us decide to head for Utah and not Wyoming.

It all worked out. We thought we’d be traveling in early winter, but once we got west of the Rockies, we found ourselves in the peak of fall color season. (More on that in future posts.)

We left home at 9:00 a.m. — our goal on this trip was to see a lot but not be rushed. I took I-70 all the way across Colorado. We’d never been on it between Frisco and Glenwood Springs, so this was our first trip past Vail and through Glenwood Canyon.

Our only sightseeing along the way was a on a brief stop in Fruita to see the statue of Mike, the headless chicken.

In 1945, a local farmer named Lloyd Olsen cut the head off a rooster. The bird ran around like, well … a chicken with its head cut off. But it didn’t stop running. Apparently, enough of the brain was still attached to the spine to keep it functioning after a fashion. “Mike” could walk around and stand on a perch, and even attempted to preen, pick at the ground, and crow. The farmer fed it with an eyedropper and small bits of corn.

Lloyd took the chicken on the road to fairs and sideshows. Mike even appeared in Time and Life magazines.  At the height of his fame, he was bringing in what would be $50,000/month today. It all came to an end when the rooster choked on a piece of grain.

Fruita holds an annual Mike the Headless Chicken Day, and this statue stands proudly downtown.

We left Fruita and soon entered a very bleak section of Utah. My wife said the landscape looked like an elephant had melted, which I thought was quite descriptive.

I’d reserved a room in the River Terrace Hotel in Green River, the only community with any claim to the description “town” in that part of the state. Green River isn’t a fancy place, and in other parts of the world, our hotel wouldn’t be considered a fancy hotel. But in that town, it was as good as it gets. Our room overlooked the river. It was clean, and the chairs were comfortable. The bed, as we learned later, was not.

My wife settled in to relax and enjoy the view. I walked across the street to the John Wesley Powell River History Museum. I’d read, and enjoyed, Powell’s account of boating through the Grand Canyon, and there certainly wasn’t anything else to do in town.

It cost me $6 to get in, and I spent maybe a half hour. It was well done, but only about half of it had to do with Powell’s voyages. The remainder was a hall of fame of guides and others who had something to do with the river. That part was of little interest.

The location of the town is the only spot where the river can be easily crossed. It was the location of a ford, a ferry, and now, a bridge.

It was still fairly early in the evening. I saw that there was a state park just downstream from our hotel, so I grabbed my binoculars to do my first Utah birding. The park turned out to be a tiny slice of river taken up entirely by a golf course and a camp ground. I didn’t bother.

So it was back to the hotel, having exhausted the recreational activities of the town. We debated where to go for supper. There weren’t many options, and we quickly narrowed these down to two — a taco truck and the Tamarisk Restaurant. We decided on the truck and arrived to discover it was closed — even though the web site and the sign said it would be open until 10:00 p.m. So it was the Tamarisk, which was associated with our hotel and located next door.

It was an odd place, with a fancy 1960’s vibe inside but with large photo murals of the local landscape on the walls. The booths along the large picture window overlooking the river were all taken, so the hostess sat us at a table for 10 in the middle of the room. For reasons I can’t recall, I ordered beef fajitas. They were edible, but nothing to sing about. The server was friendly, the kid from the booth behind me dropped his napkin in my lap, and the price was high.

We retired to an evening of reading in our room and a night of restlessness on the hard and lumpy slab that served as our mattress. For $160, it wasn’t a place of dreams.

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Glow at the Gardens

I had barely mentioned this pumpkin-carving festival at the Denver Botanical Gardens when my wife told me to buy tickets. Our only option was a Thursday night. We drove up after work and ate supper at Noodles. The park was crowded with a lot of families with kids, but there were a couple other older couples beside us.

The ads for the event bragged on the “professional” artists who carved the pumpkins. But apart from five or six “statues,” there wasn’t much I couldn’t have done. What they lacked in artistry, they made up for in sheer volume — and a lot of lights.

We were there for perhaps an hour and saw everything there was to see. I’ll let the photos tell most of the rest of the story.

This glass sculpture sits out all the time — it was there when we visited to see the Christmas lights two years ago. I can’t help wondering what they do when it hails.

This was probably the most impressive of the statues.

This owl looks impressive, but it isn’t really carved so much as it’s just pumpkin slices fixed onto a frame and backlit.

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Paravicini’s Italian Bistro

We may have a new favorite restaurant. We decided to try something new, so we ended up at this Italian restaurant in Old Colorado City.

It’s an intimate little place with an inner-city vibe and a pleasant ambiance. I ordered the Fettuccini Gabriella, with shrimp and scallops, and it was delicious. I don’t remember what my wife got, but she loved it. The bread and salad were also tasty.

People who walked in when we did were told there was an hour wait, but I’d made reservations, so we were seated right away. It was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives, and there are a ton of good reviews on Yelp.

We will be back.

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