Yellowstone National Park – Day One

It was 50 miles from Cody to the East Entrance of the park, which sounds like a lot, but the scenery was every bit as good as the scenery in the park.

We got about halfway when it began to snow.

We were half a mile from the entrance when we came to a complete stop. A guy driving the other direction told us the road was temporarily closed for snow removal. We sat in place for about half an hour.

Once things opened up, they moved pretty fast. Our first stop was an outhouse, and we found one none too soon. Next to the parking lot, a waterfall ran through the woods.

When we drove over Sylvan Pass (8,530 ft.) we could see where the snowplows had been working.

The day cleared up shortly after this, but it remained pleasantly cool. At least I thought so. A lot of other people thought it was unpleasantly cold. I think the temperatures may have kept the morning crowds down.

We drove along Yellowstone Lake for several miles. We got out briefly at Steamboat Point, where we saw our first evidence of the caldera responsible for the geysers and other features. But compared to what we saw later, it wasn’t terribly exciting.

We headed toward the center of the park and the Old Faithful area. Along the way, we stopped briefly to see the Kepler Cascades.

I’d always heard about the huge crowds at Yellowstone, and things were decidedly busier the closer we got to Old Faithful, but we were early enough (about 9:45, after a two-hour drive from our hotel) to still easily find a parking place about a quarter mile from the geyser. I looked for signs telling when the next eruption of Old Faithful would happen and learned that we had about an hour to wait. We took a short loop trail around the Upper Geyser Basin. We were nearly to Old Faithful when a young woman told us and everyone around us that another geyser, Beehive, was due to go off in “about seven minutes.” We walked to a spot where we could see it from about 150 yards away and waited. About seven minutes later, it went off. It’s considered one of the more impressive geysers in the park because it shoots up from a small hole and reaches the impressive height of 200 feet. It erupts irregularly, but when it has its groove on, it goes off twice a day. We were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. The water coming out of the hole made an impressive rushing sound.

We were less than half an hour from Old Faithful’s next show. We found seats on one of the benches that circle half of the glacier. It began shooting up steam about 10 minutes before it erupted, and each time people went “oooooo!” By the time it went off, there were several hundred people watching. It was worth the show. A lot of hot water shot up in the air and a lot of steam spread over the area.

We wandered the area looking for lunch. Our search included about three minutes in the old lodge — I’m not sure why we didn’t look around more. We finally ended up in a gift shop buying very expensive sausages and eating them on a bench outside. They were, however, very good sausages.

Then I made a mistake due to lack of preparation.  We walked the boardwalks around the Upper Geyser Basin, and before we were through, Sally’s hip and my knee were very sore. We looked and acted like old people. Anyway, here’s what we saw on that walk in no particular order.

This is Morning Glory Pool. It looks pretty and remote. What you can’t see are the people lined up three deep on the boardwalk taking selfies. Or the woman not far away who was blocking traffic so she could take videos of her daughters doing cartwheels. On the boardwalk. In an area where falling off the boardwalk could kill you.

That’s the old lodge in the background. In the foreground is Beehive Geyser when it’s not erupting.

We limped back to the car and headed west. It was a great deal busier at this point, and we soon ran into a lot of traffic around Midway Geyser Basin. That must be where the best features are, or maybe there just isn’t enough parking. Cars were lined up on both sides of the road for a couple miles, and there was no way were in any shape to walk that far. We soon hit a dead stop for about 15 minutes, then crawled forward. This time it was for a herd of bison that were crossing the road at their own sedate pace.

Eventually we cleared the busy area and were able to enjoy the scenery again. This is Gibbon Falls. I’ll say this about Yellowstone. It lives up to they hype. Features like this — which aren’t even famous — are scattered all over the park.

Looking the other way from where I took the above photo of the falls.

Eventually we made our way around to Hayden Valley. This is one of the places where wolves are sometimes seen, and there was a crowd looking at something. But when I got out and asked, it turned out to be two Coyotes.

We stopped very briefly at the Mud Volcano. The smell of sulfur here was almost overwhelming. It wasn’t one of the prettier spots either.

By this time it was already late in the afternoon. We drove back past Yellowstone Lake, stopping only long enough to see the Grizzly Bear (see separate post). We then had the long, but pretty, drive back to Cody.

We didn’t get back to our hotel until after 8:00 pm. We stopped at Walmart and bought a couple microwave meals to eat in the hotel room.

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Scotts Bluff National Monument

I planned on visiting this famous hill along the Oregon Trail when I lived in Colorado, but it never happened. It did, however, happen to be on our route from Kansas City to Cody, Wyoming. Our drive took us past Chimney Rock, another historic landmark on the trail. We only stopped long enough to take a few photos.

It was quite a bit taller during the Oregon Trail period (1840-1860).

We arrived at Scotts Bluff about an hour before the visitor center and the road to the top closed. We made a quick spin through the museum, then drove to the top to look over the surrounding countryside, including the town of Scottsbluff (one word). There were two short trails to overlooks, both of which I managed to visit, and some old western bird friends — White-throated Swifts and Black-billed Magpies.

Chimney Rock was just visible in the distance. it’s that white mound to the left of the long ridge on the horizon.

The white arc in the photo below is the road we took to the top. It goes through a tunnel in the lower section of the bluff — the famous part that borders the valley through which the Oregon Trail ran.

Here’s that bluff from trail level.

And Mitchell Pass, the route of the trail. Scotts Bluff is named (maybe) for Hiram Scott, an employee of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company who died near here in 1828 after being abandoned by his companioins.

I took the photo above. The one below was on the wall of our room in the Scottsbluff Hampton Inn. Mine is better.

I asked a ranger at the visitor center to recommend a restaurant in town. She informed me that she was not allowed to recommend restaurants “while in uniform.” So after checking in to our hotel, we went down the street to Chili’s. Our waitress took our order, brought our drinks and chips, then disappeared. A long time later, she stopped by to say she would check on our food. Then she disappeared again. Another woman finally brought us our food. We never saw our waitress again until the very end when, tired of waiting, I stood up to leave. She suddenly appeared with our bill, naturally. The food was fine, and we weren’t in a hurry, but it was weird. It reminded me of the experience I’d had in Casper in 2019. What’s with this part of the country?

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The National WWI Museum and Memorial

The first stop on our trip was Kansas City to visit our daughter. We spent Saturday morning at this museum — one of the best I’ve ever been to. It covers WWI is a thorough, well-organized, interesting way without being overwhelming. Here are some random photos from this visit and a couple from another visit we made in 2010.

They only have a small display on the Lusitania — one signboard, a poster, a medal.

Well worth the visit if you’re interested in history and anywhere near Kansas City.

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Reptile/Amphibian #43 – Diamond-backed Watersnake

nerodia rhombifier

Friday, May 10, 2024 – 10:05 am

Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge, Arkansas

I spotted the snake swimming along the muddy shore in one of the canals. As I watched, it crawled up onto the muddy bank like it was heading for the foliage, but then turned and crawled back into the water. It was probably close to three-feet long. I was perhaps 20 yards away from it, in my car on the road on the other side of the canal.

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Reptile/Amphibian #42 – Western Ratsnake

pantherophis obsoletus

Saturday, May 4, 2024 – 12:20 pm

Pope County, Arkansas – Galla Creek State Wildlife Management Area

After a morning of birding at Holla Bend, I headed toward home via Atkins Bottoms. I decided to make a quick stop at Galla Creek to see if any warblers were around.

The ratsnake was laying in the road not far off the paved highway. I pulled up next to it and took these photos, and it never moved. It was gone 20 minutes later when I left.

I don’t know why it has that weird kinked look — it’s almost like it swallowed another snake.

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