Reptile/Amphibian #38 – Broad-banded Watersnake

nerodia fasciata confluens

Wednesday, August 30, 2023 – 9:14 am

Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge, Arkansas

I spotted this snake swimming in a channel along a rice field. It was perhaps two feet long. I was standing on the road about 15 feet away. It swam steadily except when I moved suddenly. It reacted by sinking down into the water so that only its head was above the surface. When it decided I wasn’t a threat, it continued on its way, moving toward the far bank and disappearing into overhanging vegetation.

Less than five minutes after it disappeared, a Cottonmouth crossed the road in front of me and disappeared down into the same ditch.

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Bird #600 – Fulvous Whistling-Duck

dendrocygna bicolor

Bald Knob National Wildlife Refuge, Arkansas

Friday, July 14, 2023 – 4:26 pm

After I saw the Cave Swallows yesterday, there was only one species that occurs annually in Arkansas that I didn’t have on my life list. Now there are none. From here on, any lifers in Arkansas will be vagrants.

I had a long day yesterday, driving down to Texas and back, and I was out and about this morning. I had just  showered and was about to settle in for a quiet evening of movie watching and reading when Michael Litz messaged the birding group that Fulvous Whistling-Ducks were present at Bald Knob. I was tired, and Bald Knob is about an hour and 20 minutes away, but I didn’t hesitate. I was in the car less than 10 minutes after I saw the message.

It was an extremely muggy, hot day with threatening clouds moving in when I arrived at the refuge. I drove to the cell (kinda like a pond, only rectangular and very shallow, and the water level is controlled by refuge personnel for rice farming and bird habitat) with the best habitat. I stopped the car, scanned the water and had my lifer.

Two of the ducks were foraging along a large mudflat in the middle of the cell. I took some photos, but the birds were a long way off and the light wasn’t optimum. I drove around to the west end and soon saw another group of six not far away from the first two. The two groups slowly wandered closer to each other, feeding as they went. They usually had their heads down, but occasionally one would look up alertly. Another birder came by, and while we were talking the flock flew further away to the far edge of the cell. I saw them briefly in flight but didn’t get good looks or photos. They seemed to settle in in their new location, perhaps for the night, as they were still in the same place an hour later when I left.

Six hundred lifers (560 in the U.S.) is a significant milestone and it’s almost embarrassing how easy this one was to get. I neither discovered the birds or had any trouble at all locating them.

Fulvous Whistling-Ducks breed in southern California, Texas, and Florida. A few wander up into Arkansas every year, but the only spot where they’re seen regularly is on private property. I knew I’d see them eventually, and I was prepared to jump at the first opportunity. I didn’t know that opportunity would come this soon. I didn’t hear them whistle. Also, Fulvous is an awful name for a beautiful duck — it means dull brownish yellow.

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Bird #599 – Cave Swallow

petrochelidon fulva

Carthage, Texas – Respass Creek at Route 79

Thursday, July 13, 2023 – 10:50 am

There are only two more birds that appear annually in Arkansas that aren’t on my life list, and both of them are considered rare in the state. They are the Fulvous Whistling-Duck and the Cave Swallow. Cave Swallows don’t nest in Arkansas, so far as I know, but later in the summer, scattered individuals show up. These are often immature birds with flocks of the very similar Cliff Swallow. The challenge is knowing where they will show up, and then separating them from immature Cliff Swallows, which look even more like Cave Swallows than adults do.

Cave Swallows used to be very rare in the U.S., nesting only in a couple of caves (hence the name) in the Southwest. But then, about 60 years ago, some bright Cave Swallows realized that bridges, culverts, and other man-made structures have openings that look a lot like caves. Now they nest in colonies all across Texas and even in South Florida, and they appear to be expanding their range even more.

So I decided not to wait until I saw one in Arkansas but, instead, find the nearest breeding colony and look for them there. According to eBird, this was just outside Carthage, Texas, four hours and 10 minutes away. Did I want to make an eight-and-a-half hour round trip to add a new bird? I decided I did.

This particular colony has built mud nests in the culverts under the bridge where Respass Creek goes under Route 79, a four-lane, 60 mph highway. Traffic was fairly busy, but not so busy that crossing back and forth across the highway was a problem. And there were wide shoulders. I parked and identified the swallows flying overhead before I even got out of my car.

I spent the next 45 minutes watching them and trying to get decent, identifiable photos. There were maybe 45 birds wheeling overhead. There were tall woods on either side of the highway, and the flock was often above tree level — sometimes way above tree level. Other times, they came down lower and swirled about over the highway. Occasionally one would dive down into one of the five culverts under the bridge. Four college-age kids parked by my car and went down into the creek. I didn’t ask them what they were doing, but it looked like some sort of research, perhaps as part of their studies. They weren’t there to see the swallows. After they left, I climbed down the bank and looked into three of the five culverts. Each of them had five or six mud nests (see the photo), not all bunched together like Cliff Swallow nests sometimes are, but not far apart either.

I walked into one of the culverts and spooked a few birds that had been hanging around the nests. They fluttered about in the dark tunnel and made their harsh calls. They had just begun to settle down, and I got one photo of one on a nest, when the four kids came back and started doing whatever they were doing at the other end of the culvert. This trapped three swallows between us. They flitted back and forth for a couple minutes, then escaped out of the culvert. I figured as long as the kids were there, I wasn’t going to get any better photos, so I left.

As I mentioned, Cave Swallows look a lot like Cliff Swallows, which I’m very familiar with. They had the same basic coloring, the same body shape and size, and very similar calls. Cliff Swallows have dark throats and white foreheads. Cave Swallows have pale orange throats and darker orange foreheads. For comparison, here’s a photo I took of a couple Cliff Swallows two years ago in Colorado.

I’ll record my other adventures of the day here for lack of a better place.

It was raining hard when I left Conway early in the morning. Along I-30, south of Little Rock, there’s a construction zone with curvy narrow lanes lined with cement walls. I was in the inside lane in packed traffic when a deluge hit and almost blocked my view of the lane. I couldn’t pull over because there was a line of trucks in the right lane, I couldn’t slow down because some moron in a semi was about four feet off my back bumper (and I’m not exaggerating), and all I could see of the truck in front of me was hazy taillights. Somehow I managed to avoid the cement wall and all the trucks and escape.

Half an hour later, still on I-30, the rain had stopped and there was a lot less traffic. I was passing a semi with a flatbed trailer. I’d just pulled even with his rear wheels when he had a blowout. There was a very loud bang, the trailer hopped up off the road a few inches, and large pieces of rubber flew all over. Fortunately, the blowout was on the other side of the trailer from me, and the driver didn’t even swerve out of his lane. I was never in any danger, as it turned out, but it was another harrowing truck-related moment. The rest of the trip was uneventful.

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Monster Mart

Arkansas’ version of Bigfoot is called the Boggy Creek Monster

The hairy, ape-like creature reportedly attacked a family in a house near the town of Fouke in 1971. Large, three-toed footprints were found nearby, and there was some damage to the house. A search was made, but no monster was spotted.

And there it would have ended except for a docudrama called The Legend of Boggy Creek, which came out in 1972 and made a surprising amount of money. Seeing an opportunity to make money, someone created Monster Mart, a gas station in Fouke dedicated to the monster. I stopped by on my way home from Texas, where I’d gone to see a Cave Swallow.

While the outside is impressive and promising, the inside, when I was there, was decidedly run down, as though the owners had stopped caring. (According to the Internet, Monster Mart is since under new ownership — hopefully they’ll be a bit more enthusiastic about it.)

I wandered through the museum, which contained movie posters, newspaper articles, and chunks of plaster that are supposedly casts made of the monster’s footprints.

Lest you be alarmed, an archaeologist from Southern Arkansas University investigated and determined that “There is a 99 percent chance the tracks are a hoax.” The local sheriff at that time chimed in: “I don’t believe in it. But I’d say you don’t argue with people who say they’ve seen it.” And a podcast on the subject reports: “So in total, every last shred of evidence that the Fouke Monster exists at all is anecdotal. Not a single piece is testable.” Color me shocked.

These newspaper articles refer to the initial 1971 sighting.

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Ark-La-Tex Monument

With my wife off cavorting with relatives at the family reunion, I decided it was time to add Cave Swallow to my life list. This involved an 8+ hour round trip down through Arkansas, across a corner of Louisiana, and 25 miles into Texas. As I usually do when I make a trip like this, I check for other sites I might want to see in the area.

Which led me to the exciting spot where Arkansas, Louisiana, and Texas meet. The U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey has placed a marker on a small chunk of concrete at the exact site. I found it, tucked up against a large tree, in an unimpressive neighborhood along a two-lane state highway.

I got out and took the obligatory photos, including one of me standing in three states at once. It wasn’t as thrilling as you might expect.

When I was satisfied that I’d seen all there was to see, I headed north. I think I was there perhaps five minutes tops.

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