The Broadmoor

The Broadmoor is the place to be in Colorado Springs. It’s one of only three resorts to earn five-star ratings from Forbes, and the hotel has earned five stars for 54 straight years. It has hosted NATO meetings, golf championships and a lot of Presidents and other celebrities. And it’s way too pricey for our budget.

Except that at certain times of the year when things are slow, you can sometimes get deals. By deals, I mean you can get a room for twice what you would normally pay for a nice hotel but half of what you would normally pay for the Broadmoor. One of those deals was available, so we decided to pretend to be wealthy, just for fun.

I reserved a room for the lowest price available. A few days later, I got a call offering us a nicer room for $10 more. I agreed, and I’m glad I did.

Check-in time was 4:00 pm on the Thursday we went. We arrived early, so we wandered through the shops.

The first one carried an odd mix of women’s clothing, birdhouses, and kaleidoscopes. We bought one of the latter for our guest bedroom.

Another shop carried odd bits of Americana. I bought a lapel pin that read “The time is now: Reagan Bush.” It was $10. The girl behind the counter informed me that they were currently on sale. If I bought 10 or more, they were $8 each. I laughed out loud and told her I didn’t need $80 worth of lapel pins. She didn’t seem amused.

A shop full of Western art didn’t have a single thing under $440, and some of the painting were going for $18,000. We didn’t buy anything there.

In another shop, I bought a refrigerator magnet and tried not to laugh (and failed) as the woman carefully wrapped it in fancy Broadmoor wrapping paper and put it in a fancy Broadmoor bag.

We still had time to kill, so we wandered the halls of the hotel, looking at the furnishings and paintings.

A long hallway was lined with photos of celebrities who had visited. I kept expecting someone to take our photos, but somehow we slipped through the cracks.

We also walked the perimeter of the man-made Cheyenne Lake. (I took some of these photos on Friday morning.)

I had deliberately left our small shoulder bag in the car so that when we checked in, I wouldn’t be assigned a bellboy. No such luck. The girl who registered us banged her little bell and a right-and-ready young man rushed up and escorted us to the elevator. He volunteered to go get our luggage, but it would have taken much longer for me to tell him where we’d parked than it took me a bit later to go get our bag myself.

Our upgraded room was in the oldest part of the hotel, which was built in 1918.

Note the phone next to the toilet. I thought it was the classy thing NOT to do that …

Our room even had a doorbell.

We faced west, overlooking the lake and the mountains. We had balcony doors, but no balcony. There was a railing we could, and did, lean on to enjoy the view and the shirt-sleeve weather.

There were swans and geese and several species of ducks on the lake. We relaxed until 5:30 and then walked down the main drive to the Golden Bee, an English pub that was dismantled and rebuilt on the grounds. We had chicken pot pie, which was basically a bowl of chicken soup with a biscuit floating on top, so I don’t know where the pie comes in. But it was really, really good, so no complaints. The fried pickle appetizer was also awesome.

When we returned to our room, a young woman from housekeeping was inside. She had removed the one piece of paper we’d thrown in the garbage, turned down the sheets, and left two chocolates and two bottles of water on the nightstand. She asked if we needed more towels. At this point, we hadn’t used any towels, so we told her no. She wanted to know if we wanted her to get ice. I said no, and my wife hastened to explain that we were going back out right away.

And we were. Guests at the hotel can go to the Little Theater to see whatever movie is showing that particular evening.

On our evening, it was Victoria & Abdul, about an Indian footman who conned his way to a ridiculous amount of influence over Queen Victoria when she was in her dotage. My sympathies were with her advisers who were dead set against the relationship. I didn’t enjoy it much, but it was free and part of the experience, I guess.

At night, the grounds are lit with thousands of lights.

I got up on Friday morning a bit later then I wanted to and missed first light on the mountains.

It was another pleasant day, so we opened the doors and enjoyed the view for a couple hours.

Mid-morning, we walked across the causeway to the other building and ate breakfast at the Natural Epicurean, a pastry bar.

In an earlier photo, you may have noticed the large round window in our bathroom. This enabled us to find our room from the outside — it turns out we were in one of only two rooms on the entire west side of the building with a window like that.

We also found a balcony at the front of the hotel that overlooked the drive and also gave us a good view of the designs on the main tower.

It was indeed a slow period. I’m pretty sure that between 60% and 70% of the people we saw were employees.

We left around 11:00. It had been a fun 20 hours, but it was time to return to the real world.

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Penrose Heritage Museum

Spencer Penrose was one of the lucky few who got rich on gold and silver mines in Colorado. He used his money to build the Broadmoor, Cheyenne Mountain Zoo, Pike Peak Highway, and all sorts of other stuff in and around Colorado Springs. When he died, his wife, Julie, started a museum to house the Penrose’s carriage collection. The carriages are still the primary focus, although other bits have been added since.

We stopped in around noon on a Thursday and had the place to ourselves except for a kindly old docent who was apparently lonely. He spent about 20 minutes telling us what we were about to see, and about the time he went to Chicago, and about how his wife died. But we weren’t in a hurry.

We hadn’t gone very far when he caught up with us. He pulled a clay container out of one of the carriages and asked if we knew what it was. My wife said it was a foot warmer. She was right, to the old man’s complete amazement. He went to the next carriage and pulled out a metal wedge and asked again. My wife said it was another foot warmer that used coal. He quit asking us stuff then, although he did follow me around for another 10 minutes to tell me all the stuff that was written on the signs.

This brougham was built in 1841. The sign next to it claims it was used in the inauguration parade of William Henry Harrison, but it doesn’t say how they know this. Harrison rode a horse, so he wasn’t in it. He did own a brougham (for which he paid $500), but nobody knows if this was it. All rather vague.

Clockwise from upper left: A brougham (rhymes with home) once owned by Chester A. Arthur and given to the Penroses by his son; a surrey built in 1897; a basket phaeton built about 1905 (left) and a village cart built around 1897; three broughams built in the late 1800’s (lower level) and a vis-a-vis (top) from the French for “face to face;” a gentleman’s drag, built in 1890 and used to carry up to 18 people to sporting events where the seats on top could serve as a private (but crowded) grandstand.

A gentleman’s phaeton built in 1890 (left top) and a surrey made of bird’s-eye maple manufactured in about 1895. On the right, our old friend arranges the fringe on a horse mannequin. The safe on the lower level was built around 1885. The red car next to it is a Renault Type AX, built in 1909.

Clockwise from upper left: an 1895 break, used for watching sporting events or to “break” colts; an 1890’s Yellowstone wagon used by Buffalo Bill Cody to carry guests to his ranch; an 1857 Concord coach used to carry mail and passengers. The Penroses used it at the Broadmoor to carry celebrities to the local rodeo; an 1890 opera bus, or omnibus, which could carry up to 10 passengers.

Clockwise from upper left: a 1935 carromata from the Philippines, used as a city carriage; a 1930’s calesa, also from the Philippines. Carriages like these are still used for tourists in Manila; two views of the Pikes Peak Hill Climb exhibit. On the right are early contestants; on the left is the remains of a crash (from which the driver walked away).

A second room featured the Pikes Peak Hill Climb, the annual race up the Pikes Peak Highway.

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The Pantry in Green Mountain Falls

I’m not being overly-wordy in my title — that’s the name of the restaurant. We overheard the owner explaining things to another customer. When he bought the place in 2001, it was called “T’s Pantry.” He wanted to change it to “The Pantry,” but the local government wouldn’t allow it because there was already a business with that name somewhere in the area. But they would allow “The Pantry in Green Mountain Falls,” which just rolls off the tongue. And it just says, “The Pantry” over the door …

Anyway, we stopped in late on a Thursday morning. There are about 10 tables in the dining room, and most of them were filled most of the time we were there, although we didn’t have to wait to be seated. My wife had an omelet. I had cinnamon roll French toast with two eggs, hash browns, and bacon. The bacon was mediocre, but everything else was good. The town itself adds charm. It’s squeezed into a valley in Ute Pass with a small man-made pond in the center. We probably won’t drive that far just to eat there, but if we’re heading west at breakfast time anyway, we’ll likely stop by.

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Molly Brown House

Margaret Tobin was born in 1967 in Hannibal, Missouri. As a young woman, she moved to Colorado where she met and married mining engineer J.J. Brown. He discovered a rich vein of gold, and the Browns became rich. They had two children, but the marriage didn’t last. Margaret was brash and outspoken, and she got involved in several causes, including rights for women and workers. She also tried her hand at politics and acting. But she probably wouldn’t be remembered today if she hadn’t survived the sinking of the Titanic and organized assistance for others who survived.

The house in Denver was built in 1889. The Browns owned it from 1894 until Margaret’s death in 1932. It became a museum in 1970.

We joined the first tour on Saturday morning. Our guide knew a fair amount, but her delivery left a lot to be desired. About 20% of the furnishings in the house belonged to the Browns.

The carriage house in back

Waiting room by the front door.

Parlor

Library

Dining room

Upstairs hall. The ugly gold plaster wallpaper made everything dark

Our guide in the upstairs sun room

Main stairway

Margaret’s bedroom

Upstairs bathroom. The electric lights, radiator heading, and indoor plumbing were all leading-edge at the time.

Margaret, J.J. and their kids

Margaret was never known as Molly during her lifetime. A biography published after her death included a lot of rumors and, supposedly, made her out to be much more brash and crude that she was in real life.

The same night at home, we watched The Unsinkable Molly Brown, with Debbie Reynolds as Molly. It was truly one of the most annoying movies I’ve ever seen. There were no characters to root for, tons of overacting, and boatloads of stupidity. Near the end there’s a scene where J.J. is standing on the edge of a canyon by a dead tree, singing out his woes about Molly. A ranger pointed out that tree to us last summer in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Maybe, but it doesn’t look like the same tree to me.

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B.C.

I’m not sure why I originally put the B.C. comic strip on my Pop Culture list, but as long as it was there … 

Johnny Hart was born in 1931. He sold his first cartoon to the Saturday Evening Post in 1954.

Inspired by Peanuts, Hart decided to create his own comic strip. He decided on the idea of cavemen and was soon appearing in newspapers across the country. He is one of only four cartoonists who have had two comic strips (The Wizard of Id is the other one) appear in more than 1,000 newspapers. His cartoons won multiple awards and were still going strong in 2007 when Hart died at his drawing board. His grandsons took up where he left off and continue the strips to this day.

I started with a collection of strips called The Best of B.C.: 58 Years of Pithy Prehistoric Puns and Punchlines. Most of the strips are just excuses for silly puns, which isn’t all bad. 

There are several gags that appear over and over, including Wiley’s Dictionary.

All the cartoons feature a group of seven cavemen, two cavewomen, and a handful of animals.

In 1984, Hart trusted Christ. He began including strips with Bible and Christian themes. Many newspapers rejected these particular strips, but Hart felt that this was his ministry.

I read I Did It HIS Way: A Collection of B.C. Religious Comic Strips, put together by Hart’s family shortly after he died. Some of these were pretty silly. Some, I thought, bordered on the sacrilegious, but some had a powerful message.

I watched B.C.: A Special Christmas, a half-hour cartoon broadcast in 1981 that featured the B.C. characters. In it, Peter and Wiley decide to create a myth about a man in a red suit who brings presents to everyone on December 26. They plan on selling trees and gifts to make a profit. But to their surprise, the myth becomes reality on December 25 when Santa shows up and delivers presents. The cartoon ends with Peter being woken up when men on camels ride past the door of his cave. He walks outside to see a bright star in the east and hear “Away in a Manger” playing in the distance. I wasn’t impressed.

I also watched a couple commercials for Monroe Shocks and Struts and Dr. Pepper which used B.C. characters. 

The comic strips amuse me enough that I’ll read them when I happen upon them, but for the purposes of this post, I’m done.

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